DAY 2: THE LONGEST DAY TO A DOUBLE SCOOP

Day 2:  Half Moon Bay to New Brighton Beach (near Santa Cruz)   60 miles

Yup, 60 miles and the last 35 went on forever.  At least that is how my legs remember it!

Half Moon Bay was quiet when we left--the tent fly was soaking wet as the night fog was thick.  We could hear the surf from our tent.  We went into town for a breakfast and coffee.  Then down California Route 1.
We expected a fair bit of traffic as it was a Sunday and the nice weather was likely to bring out many others.

The road was familiar; the beaches delightful.  We saw only a few surfers and wind surfers.  The pumpkin patches are about to explode with orange color.  Fast cars around every bend:  Lotus, Maserati, Ferrari.  We were all out to enjoy the beauty of the day.

We arrived in Santa Cruz with tired legs and then found our way through city streets to New Brighton Beach Campground near Soquel.  Now why did THAT campground have to be at the top of the bluff after our 60 mile day?  That is the most I have ever ridden at once and for some stupid reason we had not stopped for a break since lunch.  I was a pumpkin myself.

But we cleaned up nice and walked down a railroad grade to Capitola--a small beach/surfing community.  The town was packed even at 6pm.  We watched the surfers and sun bathers.  We wandered town.  And somehow the gods lead us to Cafe Violette for ice cream....locally made, of course.  They serve Marianne's Ice Cream made in Santa Cruz.   I picked the 10-20 flavor -- caramel flavored ice cream with fudge swirl and oreo cookie pieces.  Seems the 10-20 refers to their home address in Santa Cruz:  1020 Ocean Avenue!

I thought of getting a second cone, but mature & adult judgement interfered so back up the hill we walked.  A quick dinner and down for the night.

Loving the Sunny Day

Deserted Beach

On the Road South

Kite Surfing

Playing in the Waves at Capitola

Proudly Serving Marianne's Ice Cream from Santa Cruz 

DAY 3: STRAWBERRY FIELDS FOREVER

Day 3:  New Brighton Beach (near Santa Cruz) to Monterey:  45 miles

A totally delightful day in the saddle making our way south along the edge of Monterey Bay.  The sun was blazing early so the scenery was crisp and blue.  We were only on a busy road for a few miles--winding through agricultural fields and the dedicated bike paths.  We could have gone on and on.

Alan had a memory of the same 2 railroad trestles from his first ride south.   Somethings are built to last!

The route was through strawberry fields and the air was heavy with their scent.  Rolling hills and rows and rows of plants.  We watched as migrant workers were hard at work and reflected on their contribution to our wellbeing with diverse, fresh and organic crops.

Then it was a short stint on Highway 1 south through Moss Landing, a working harbor complete with harbor seals basking in the sun.  We stopped at Phil's Restaurant for lunch based on recommendation from Arlene & Les.  Seafood straight from the boat -- I had the sliders:  1 each of shrimp, scallops, salmon, and calamari.  Alan enjoyed the ahi tuna.  So delicious!

Back on the road -- a bit farther and then on bike paths for 20+ miles all the way into Monterey.  A new path has been opened through Fort Ord (now decommissioned).   Even with a bit of a head wind, the ride was easy, the views stunning, and the miles clicked off.

Alas, the campground is at the TOP of a long hill with the worst grades we were to see:  10-11%.  We both walked a short stretch as our legs were done by then.

We walked back down to the wharf after getting set up; got salads at Trader Joe's and fell asleep early.  We spent the night listening to the sea lions from the harbor!

What gear did we use for this trip?
Alan rides a Bianchi carbon bike -- he had that completely refurbished with lower gears, new brake and shift cables, brake pads, rear derailer, chain, tires and seat.  I suppose after 7,000 miles some routine service is in order!  As he has a carbon frame, he can not mount racks and carry the panniers often associated with bike touring.  So he found a BOB trailer (Beast of Burden) on Craig's List and towed that!  The BOB connects to his rear wheel axle and has a single 18 inch wheel.  There is a waterproof bag and it weights 35 or so pounds.  He carries our sleeping gear, cooking gear, pump and spares, and food.

I ride my Cannondale with rear rack and double panniers.  My load is probably 25 pounds including our tent, clothes, toiletries, a book each and flashlights.

We each have 2 sets of cycling clothes, arms/legs/gloves, vest and reflective top, 1 set of street clothes, and a full set of long underwear, hats.  We would have to add rain jackets in most other areas.

We had cycling odometers to help monitor our riding.   We each carried multiple water bottles.  Oh yeah, and a small cable lock that would not discourage anyone from stealing the bikes but made us feel prudent!

Strawberry Fields Forever

A River

Harbor Seals rule in Moss Landing

Bike Path on to Monterey

Bike Path near Fort Ord

On to Monterey

DAY 4: FLOATING OVER THE FOG

Day 4:  Monterey to Big Sur.  47 miles

The sun was shining as we awoke for day 4.  We had some housekeeping chores to finish (code for trip to a laundry mat) so headed towards Pacific Grove.   We opted to leave the standard Pacific Coast route and ride the 17 Mile Drive through Carmel.  The Drive is free for cyclists and it was fun to bypass all the cars waiting to pay.  We rode along looking at the estate homes, the crashing surf, and the golf courses.  We went past Pebble Beach and saw the turnoff for "Stillwater Cove" -- a place we anchored years ago and believe me those waters were not still that night.  Gas at Pebble Beach was $5.80 a gallon and there were cars lined up for the pump.

As the miles rolled past, we went around Carmel and past the Carmel Mission.  We had a picnic lunch at Carmel River Beach State Park.  It felt like the heart of the ride was upon us.  No more services; long stretches of climbing; isolated communities.  It was past the point of turning back.  Were we up for the challenge?

Up, Down, Curve Left, Curve Right.  Bridges from the 30s.  Roadwork.  Up, Down, Curve Left, Curve Right.  More roadwork.

Alan remembers Hurricane Gulch from his previous ride down the coast (um, 48 years ago).  The winds blew so strongly he was pushed sideways across the bridge and into ongoing traffic despite all out pedaling.  But there was nothing like that this time.

There were many cars; many motorcyclists, many RVs.  Those rental RV drivers seem to avoid crossing the double yellow line and I'm not sure they realize just how wide they are.  But most drivers were very aware of us and I never felt the cars were too close or too threatening.

And then I fell.  We were approaching a traffic control zone; a stretch of just one lane.  We were going slow as we approached the stopping point; it was slightly uphill.  And I could not get my foot out of my pedal.  PANIC.  Nowhere to go but over -- and over I went onto the side of the road.  The bike landed on top of me; blood squirted from my knee and mostly I was embarrassed and shocked.  I realized I was not really badly hurt -- a few cuts on my knee and a gorgeous purple blue bruise spreading across my leg.  But, I could get up and walk and push the bike...and get back in that saddle and ride.   We were still miles from Big Sur.  Best get on with doing it!

I had a chocolate chip cookie on the top of the hill.  That helped cure the road rash blues.

We rode above the fog in many sections.  Beautiful hills in clear, crisp blue skies.  And the Pacific Coast hidden in gray fog.

The campground at Big Sur is right in the redwoods along the Big Sur River.  It was lovely.  We cleaned up; wandered along the river.  And luck was with us as we found 2 cycling jerseys and 1 pair of shorts in the laundry room!  An assisted ride, the California Coastal Classic, raises money for the National Arthritis Foundation had passed through the day before and someone had left these items behind.  Works for me!!

We camped our entire trip:  Hiker Biker sites are available in campgrounds run by State of California (Half Moon Bay, New Brighton Beach near Santa Cruz, Big Sur and Hearst San Simeon Beach State Park); the City of Monterey at Veteran's Memorial Park; and the National Forest Service (Plaskett Creek).  The sites are available without reservation and no one is "turned away."  They charge per person ($5-7 per person) rather than the going rate of $35 per site which must be reserved in advance.  We planned our route based on how far we could ride and where we would find campgrounds.  They were clean, comfortable, accessible, and affordable.  All had showers except Plaskett Creek.  Our favorite campground:  Big Sur.  Our least favorite:  San Simeon -- where they put the bikers right by the road and the campground host is a grumpy, vet with a massive chip on his shoulder.

Pacific Grove to Carmel

Mission at Carmel

Picnic Lunch at Carmel River Beach Park

Riding above the Fog -- ocean, fog, hills, sky and the road

Our campsite at Big Sur

Through the campground

DAY 5: I WILL DO IT MYYYYYYYYYY WAY

Day 5:  Big Sur to Plaskett Creek.  35 miles.

We were rested after a night camping in the redwoods.  I was worried that my knee might be too sore for the challenging climb up Big Sur that begins right at the campground entrance.  We shared a triple latte at the Big Sur Lodge and then packed up.  In a vote of reality, Alan gave me my crocs to carry...in case I had to walk sections of the climb.  We'll see.

We packed up and then set off, I mean we set UP.  It is hard to realize how much work UP is when you have lead legs and a heavy load of gear.  But we set off in the sun -- very promising.  At the top, well, there was the fog and we would not see sun or anything other than gray for 2 days.  Blah.  I was ready to give those crocs back to Alan:  I'm doing this whole ride!

The route was up and down; 1 lane at times with Caltrans traffic control out; bridges clinging to the hillside.  This stretch is devoid of services so we were optimistic we would have no break downs.

There were many view turnouts; the tourists all seemed to stop and look around and then continue on.  Maybe they hope the fog is thinner at the view points?  But one Japanese tourist clapped for Alan as he rode in and stopped.  A very honest and heartfelt acknowledgement that not everyone wants to ride this coast on a bike or could make it happen.

Sudden we were in Lucia and sucking down cold drinks.  Lucia is a 1 store town.

On and on the road went--past a few campgrounds until we arrived at Plaskett Creek, a National Forest Campground within Los Padres National Forest.  Green lawns and spacious sites.  No showers.  Cold fog.  We walked to the beach.  Ate dinner and rewarded ourselves with Blue Berry Cheesecake from a backpacker's food source.  Very fine!  Then to the sleeping bags and rest.

SO...who else is out there doing human powered travel up and down the coast?  Because everyone within the traveller community is doing it THEIR WAY!  Our favorites:

a.  2 "old guys in their 70s" going from Portland to San Diego staying in motels and eating in restaurants.  A few stretches require long days but both seemed in great shape and spirits.  One had done a cross country ride with his wife on a tandem a few years ago.

b.  2 "really young guys" were skateboarding & hitchhiking from San Francisco to San Diego.  They carried packs; one had a frying pan hanging off the back.  They hitchhike up the hills; skateboard down!  They caught a ride south of Big Sur and waved to us as they went on down the road.

c.  Dieter, the smoking German, who was riding from Los Angeles to Bodega Bay and then back.  He was carrying 60 lbs in 5 bags.  He had done whale watching in Monterey and was staying over in Big Sur to hike.

d.  Paul, the Michigan man, was going from Reno to Crater Lake to Portland to San Luis Obispo to Sequoia National Park to Yosemite to Reno.  He figured it would take him 5 weeks!  Given all the conditions he was facing, his load was also about 60 lbs.  He had planned to use Amtrak from Michigan to Reno and back but they called 2 days before scheduled departure and said "sorry, the train derailed" so he drove out nonstop!  I think he was riding 90+ miles a day.

e.  Steve, the smoking Canadian, was riding from Vancouver to San Diego to work on an organic farm.  Organic tobacco we figure.  Then he wanted to ride to the east coast over the winter; maybe he will figure out that Arizona in the winter is not so warm.  His rig included a third wheel on his bike to carry his load.

f.  2 "young guys", a team from New York City and New Zealand.  They get my heart award.  Somehow they met up in San Francisco, bought matching 5 speed bikes with 24" tires (small) and some camping gear.  They carried backpacks and had gear strung in plastic bags over their handle bars.  They ate meals out.  No bike gear was seen.  The Kiwi wore basketball shorts, magenta gloves, and flo orange T-shirt.  They may have walked most of the hills, but they cheerfully showed up in camp, pitched the tent and then watched movies on their laptop.

Get Ready to Ride

Sneak Peak Along the Coast

Plaskett Creek was a Great Milestone for me

DAY 6: RIDING BLIND

Day 6:  Plaskett Creek to Hearst San Simeon State Park.  48 miles including round trip to Cambria for dinner.

Day 6 featured the last major climbs of our trip.  We awoke to gray -- fog and dampness.  The best chance of clear weather along the coast is September-October but we were faced with another day of gray.  Riding blind.

The night was COLD!  And the never ending cry of a bird that turned out to be a pair of peregrine falcons that hunt seagulls at night.  It was a rather eery cry and almost sounded like a hurt or sick bird.

We were up and packed and headed to Gorda for a cup of coffee.  The whole town has a population of about 10 hard scrabble souls; the worst and most expensive coffee of the entire trip.  But I knew that right out of Gorda we would begin several climbs each 1-2 miles so I was willing to drink 2 cups of the swill.

Up in the saddle -- just start turning those cranks.  Riding in the fog; well, there are both good and bad points.  It is good:  you only ride the couple hundred yards you see and not the entire climb ahead.  It is bad:  you can't mentally or physically pace yourself.  How close am I to the top?  to the next curve?  But no matter what you can't see the fabulous views that are lurking everywhere along Route 1.  I can confirm gray is boring after a few days.

There was a fair bit of road work going on.  Highway 1 is a permanent project for Caltrans.  At one point, the Caltrans worker was holding his "GO SLOW" sign.  I said:  No worry, I'm going slow.  He smiled and said:  You have a mile to the top and this is the last climb.  Words to motivate!!  A motorist going the other direction was waiting for traffic to clear and he offered me this advice:  just get in your cadence....you've got a bit of climbing left.  Well, yeah.

But we went on and on; up and up.  And then down and down.  And then up and up.  And then down and down.  After a few hours -- there was Ragged Point and two jagged cyclists rolled in and had REAL COFFEE AND REAL CHAI.  And a real proud feeling of accomplishment.

The rest of the route was down to the beach edge; even got some surf spray at one point.  A bit of clearing and eventually blue sky.  A view of Hearst Castle perched on the hill.  We decided not to do a tour; just not into seeing how the old money was spent in excess.

We watched Elephant Seals on the beach tossing sand on themselves and gallumphing into the surf.

On to Hearst San Simeon State Park.  It was nearly deserted.  For some reason the hike/bike campsites are furthest from the entrance to the park and closest to the road.  I guess since we listen to road noise all day someone figures we might like to camp 15 yards from the road at night.  YUCK.

But then we cleaned up.  Read a bit.  And rode into Cambria (on a delightful bike route along the coast) for a deluxe dinner at Robins.  Cute town laced with money.  We were happy to spend and to eat.

Here is some info about our daily routines on this trip.
We would arrive in camp in mid to late afternoon.  Off come the cycling shoes and on with those crocs.  Alan would pitch the tent; we'd dry out the fly as needed.  We would get the sleeping mats, pillows, and sleeping bags into the tent.

Then it was off to the showers -- mostly they were $.25 for 2-3 minutes of warm to hot water.    Cleaned up and with our street clothes on, we would walk around the campground, through the park, maybe to town...whatever option was best.

Other riders would be coming into camp and we'd share stories of the day.

Dinner time was next.  We had dehydrated our meals so it was easy to boil water to reconstitute and heat up a tasty, healthy meal.  (Some folks lived on cookies, beer, nuts, smokes....)  We would pack up snacks for the next day alternating dates, dried bananas, nuts, and GORP (good old raisins and peanuts laced with M&Ms).

Lunches were peanut butter & nutella on sourdough; or cheese.  I missed fruit and veges.

Breakfasts were granola or oatmeal (again, we had made and dehydrated our own.)

We read until it was too dark or too cold or we were too tired.

Living Life Large as an Elephant Seal

The Sun is Back and Shining on Hearst Castle