Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Palace and Wats and Temples...and Buddhas

We set off to explore the 3 holy sites for Buddhists in Thailand:  The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun.  These sites have been active for 100s of years and display the long term linkage of religion and the monarchy.

We took a river boat ride to the Grand Palace; figured out the wily stranger telling us the Palace was closed for a Buddhist holiday; and were just about floored by the architectural experimentation, wall decorations, gold leafed murals, and the Buddhas.  The Grand Palace includes more than 100 buildings (!); the most famous is probably the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

Wat Pho has the city's largest reclining Buddha and the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand.

Within the most holy temples, one could not take photos.

Anyway...we walked and saw amazing sites.  Here are just a few photos from The Grand Palace....more to follow.



















Tuesday, February 17, 2015

33 Hours & Looking Good!

A long set of flights; a few delays; and then....looking good in Thailand.


Friday, February 13, 2015

The Temples

The entire complex of Angkor Archeological Park is a photographers playground!  Endless corridors, small alcoves, steep stairs, windows, doors -- all create so many snapshots of light and texture and space.  Snap and snap again.

OK.  So yesterday I took only 776 pictures.  Maybe 1,500 pictures over 3 days.  No one will be invited to a slide show--I promise.  And anyway,  there is no way that photos can convey the size and scale of the Park and each of the myriad of temples within the Park.

For example, Angkor Thom, the Great City a bit north of Angkor Wat, is about 9 sq km.  The entire area is enclosed with a 26 ft defensive wall and moats 330 feet wide.  Bayon Temple within Angkor Thom is a 3 story complex with 45 towers each sporting the carved face of Buddha (or is it Loksvara, Mahayana Buddhism's compassionate Bodhisattva, or Buddha + Jayavarman VII?)  Also within Angkor Thom is The Mighty Baphuon, The Terrace of the Leper King, and The Terrace of the Elephants.....and and and.

Historically Hinduism was the religion of the Khmer civilization.  As the Temples were built over 100s of years, Hindu symbols were installed; then as Buddhism rose to ascendency the Hindu symbols were destroyed/defaced/replaced with Buddhas.  And back and forth.  Much has also been lost to history as the stelae with historic descriptions written in sanskrit and cambodian (stored in "libraries" next to the temples) have been vandalized or stolen.  There are some smaller temples with no known names & historical documentation.  I try to imagine if all the statues were in place -- every junction point had a monument of some sort; now often just an empty pedestal.

Khmer Kings had 4 main roles:
1.  Build moats and keep the waters flowing for rice crops 4 times a year.
2.   Construct a Temple for Gods and Ancestors
3.  Build a City -- estimates are the area supported about 1 million residents in 1100.  London was a simple village in comparison!
4.  Make Peace and Promote Development.

Wars and rebellions; dry years and wet.  Kings saw it all.  But eventually environmental damage coupled with over extension forced the Khmer Kings to move to Phnom Penh.  There they were a bit farther from those dreaded Thais (who still claim Angkor Wat as theirs).  Phnom Penh is also at the confluence of the Mekong River coming south from Laos and the Tonle Sap Lake -- and a better location to rule the country and keep an eye on those pesky Vietnamese.

Bayon -- Temple with Towers & Faces & Murals
4 Stars on a 3 Star Scale

She gave me a blessing for Long Life and Prosperity


From the 3rd Level of the Central Tower at Angkor Wat.  

Looking out towards West from 3rd level -- you can see the outer wall; then there is moat


Tourists Hike Up and Down; on main routes there are solid stairs; else you watch your step!

The guards and the tired tourists wait in the courtyard below; The orange shirt means "an official designated guide" but you can pay anyone anything to take you around....buyer beware!


One of 2 libraries at Angkor Wat

The Mighty Baphuon!  Let's go to the top!!




Note the thin little cord to give warning -- that be a sheer drop off!

This used to be the training grounds for the elephants....now it is the "bus barn" for all those tourists!
This is for Bayon so one of the major stops.  Tuk Tuks are to the left in the trees.  Somehow I found my driver every time!

The Elephant Terrace -- almost 1000 feet long covered with bas-reliefs of Elephants! and other animals










The main Temples harbor vendors selling everything:  clothes, fruit, books, cold drinks.
Everything but a Foot Massage!!




Bas Reliefs and other Carvings

Throughout the Temples many surfaces are carved with images:  dancing figures, praying figures, horses, tigers, wild monkeys, warriors, and all sorts of gods.  Many of the finest carvings are at Angkor Wat and Bayon--literally miles of wall telling the story of creation (per the Hindu religion) and famous naval and land battles.  There is one long stretch depicting heaven and hell:  hell is alot wider and more detailed than heaven!  Only a few images are of everyday life -- after all these were Temples for Kings/Gods so why muddy up things with ordinary activities!

A few of my favorite photos.

There is some speculation that the carvings had been covered in some sort of metallic finish but this is unsubstantiated.  Also for a time the murals were painted over with red coloring (maybe when the Buddhists were in ascendancy) so that is still visible.  And, pilgrims and tourists often reach out and touch the iconic figures leaving a shine to the stone.

Murals stretch around the outer walkway of the inner temple.  On and On.

A good guy -- head gear tells us (them?) that

A Bad Guy -- see above

Have you Danced Today?

Have You Prayed Today?






It is Good to Have a Friend



Sanskrit inscription honors various deeds

Famous Sarus Cranes on the Walls




The King and Generals Ride Elephants in Battle; Parasols are like stars-- more is better.

This shows folks from heaven sliding down to hell.  Believe me there were some pretty tortured souls in hell.



Believed to be an image of Jayavarman VII who died as Angkor Wat was being built.