Sunday, October 31, 2010

GO GIGANTES!

Indeed, we think the magic of the moment is the Gigantes -- we hope close to winning the Serie de Mondial.  But the daily boat work also has had its magical moments.  Some moments, however, have been of the dark magic kind.

Let's see:

a.  Carlos the stainless man has his projects well in hand:  kayak holders, back steps, anchor bail, storm parachute attachment plates.
b.  Chava the electrician came and solved our invertor problem.  Oh the little green little at the outlets -- it's back.  Really it means we have 110v, a means to charge batteries from the shore cord, and we don't have a pricey replacement to chase down in the US!
c.  Alan easily got the port lights out and is about half way through replacing them.  Then we won't have crazed windows to look through.  Why be in paradise if you can't see out your windows?
d.  Caroline finished up several sewing projects...a few will be completed back in the US.

But the dark magic was my MAC.  Works fine and then...it doesn't work at all!!  Now that is so totally like a boat.  Where is the boat gremlin today?  I'm hoping that it is any easy repair back in the states...anybody have ideas on how to self diagnosis a wayward MAC?

And the lock man never showed so we have a boat door that is lockless.  After much discussion we decided to just bring the doors home, Alan will remake them, and we'll use a plywood cover over the space in our absence.

But it is a holiday season in Mexico...Day of the Dead....and there are signs around Guaymas.  We will try and post pictures soon.

The heat is back; the list is short.  We hope to be driving north by Sunday but are planning to go via Sedona AZ for a little Red Rock hiking. 

Sunday, October 24, 2010

The Mexican Way   A guest commentary by Alan

When we purchased our boat, it was known that one engine was not working, but the extent of the damage was not known. Ron, the seller, was responsible for repair and we thought a mechanic in Tucson would do the work. However they are a 7 hour drive away, don't come down here often, and said we needed a fork lift to remove the engine from the boat, and there isn't one here. So after we were here about a week, Ron gave permission to use a local mechanic, Mario & Sons. The day after giving the o k, they arrived and started removing parts.

I've got to say here, I didn't envy them in the least! It's hot here, and the engine room has little ventilation, and frankly it stinks like a diesel normally does. Over several hours lots of old parts came into the cockpit, including a fresh water pump that was missing important metal to keep the water in, and a head that had a lot of carbon showing, and at least one damaged fuel injector. At this point, with the head off, it could be seen that the rings of one piston badly scored the cylinder wall, which meant the block needed to be removed.

The next day, after a few hours of their continued work, I left the boat for a bit (Caroline was in a building doing sewing) and upon return, saw three strong guys hauling on a rope, lifting the block out of the engine room! Then they hoisted it over the rail and lowered it by hand to the ground, some 10' below! Mario, an older man, just watched, and said to me: "We do et da Mexican way." Forklift, block & tackle? No way, just yank it out, lower it to the ground then lift into the back of the car and drive off with it.





















How much this engine weighs, I don't actually know, but it took three strong backs to lift it. When Mario saw I didn't get a photo of putting it in the car, he said "take it out so the Gringo can get a picture..." They all just laughed.

The next day, Mario's son & grandson arrived to clean the almost empty engine room. Three hours later it was SO clean, Caroline & I joked about having a new dining room! From these combined experiences, the next day we asked Mario to do his magic on the port engine, so we'd be starting off with two equally good power plants. Last week he did just that, and found the fresh water pump in about the same condition (awful) but not much else wrong.

The replacement parts have been ordered from L.A. (will arrive in two weeks) and the block & head are at the machine shop to be bored and valves ground. It's going to be so great to start off our cruising days knowing we have two strong engines to move us, when the winds don't blow.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Friday Night is Date Night in Guaymas

Friday night is date night in Guaymas and we treat ourselves to a night on the town.

On our first date night we went power shopping at Walmarts and then out to a taco stand, Papago's.  Our order came with two large trays of various salsas, peppers (HOT!!), and mixed vegetables such as cucumbers and radishes.

Last night we walked the Malecon and to our surprise there was a group aerobics class with probably 200 women moving to the beat of an overly loud stereo system and instructor.  There were a few stands with food.  A couple of places to rent little battery operated vehicles for kids.  A couple of inflatable jumping houses for the kids.

We then wandered towards the central mercado on the hunt for a washboard.  Yup, a washboard, for those days ahead where there is no shoreside "lavendaria"for those dirty clothes.  We had priced them in California (I think the folks who live off the grid consider them essential) at about $30 USD.  We found a small, jammed hardware store and the owner reached through piles of stuff to present us with a very nice, new washboard for $89 Pesos.  We talked awhile as they were astounded that gringos would want such an item.  It cost about $8 USD.  I was thrilled.

Then into a fabric store to find material to make storage bags.  No luck, but the prices were good even if the fabric was geared to dresses and school uniforms.  There is plenty of Christmas fabric available here already.  Yikes!

Then we walked back down the street to Doney's, a taco shop with tables and inside/outside seating for about 30.  The kitchen cook line is open to view and there are 2 waitresses shuffling orders.  We get cheese quesadillas, guacamole, papa fritos san carne, and drinks.  That last dish is a baked potato with creamy cheese sauce, corn, and peppers.  The tab for stuffing ourselves:    $12 USD.

Today we were back at work on the boat:  the stainless work is looking great, the wind generator is re-installed, remeasured for our new jib order, and another spreader boot sewn in place.  Our afternoon project was to look on the outside of the boat to find all the throughhulls and then go inside and trace them, make a map for where all the "holes" are, and clean the area under the floor boards.  

Tomorrow we are going to a local flea market as Alan wants to find a battery + charger to replace one that has died on the boat from too many months of no use.  Another adventure!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Let the Water be Warm

Working away.

I spent the day focused on a couple of canvas projects and getting the spreader boots ready for tomorrow's trip up the mast.

Mario, the engine mechanic, arrived to tear apart the port engine.   We all had a laugh when the engine cooling water pump was brought out for display.  The intake side was packed with something green, maybe moss?  maybe antifreeze congealed.  One of the coolant hoses was cracked through and the valve cover gasket was in bad shape.  BUT the compression test was good so there was no need to remove the head.   We were relieved the engine was in generally good condition and with some new parts we will have two solid engines.

The drinks however, will stay on ice for the duration of this trip.  Shortly after Mario left, Jose the refrigeration mechanic returned with our compressor.  He had worked to clean it, etc, but after it was reinstalled.....nothing.  So that lovely item will come back to the states with us next month and get checked out or replaced.

Alan spent the majority of his day removing the caulking from the seams in the bow area to re-caulk.  The best platform to reach those spots is from the top of the car that is conveniently parked under the boat to grab any available shade.

But the afternoon and evening temps continue to drop and we finally asked at the marina office if they could turn on the hot water in the showers.  So the showers this evening were in luke warm water!

And Alan's almost last project was re-installing the diesel atomizer nozzle for the Webasto hot water and heating system on the boat.  The heater fired right up after that and the water in the galley was warm.

Just as it was quitting time because the drum and bugle corps from the local high school began their daily practice session on the Malecon, Carlos, the stainless welder showed up with 2 20 foot stainless tubing pieces.  There was a quick consultation and he promises to return tomorrow at 9am.  But Alan had to then remove the existing base of the wind generator pole and fill the holes with resin so the surface will be ready for a new base plate.

A long day.  But we had warm water as our success story.  More cruisers are showing up...there are now  10 boats in the yard with owners aboard.  One boat went in the water today...an Australian couple who bought a boat here and have outfitted her and will sail back to Fremantle this next season.

We are headed to Dairy Queen to top off the day!

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Up and Away!

UP --yes, today I went UP the mast.  I am replacing the spreader boots (so the jib does not rub on the standing rigging).  So before I cut the leather and foam liner, I needed to visually inspect where the rigging and spreaders intersect to hold the mast in column.  We have 6 locations that require spreader boots.

The process to go up the mast is pretty straight forward.  Get into a climbing harness, attach the harness to the main halyard, and have Alan winch away.  My trip up was quite successful; I spent most of the afternoon cutting the leather and have punched holes in 2 pieces.  I figure it will take me 3 trips UP the mast to finish the project; I expect to space the trips out over this week.



While I was busy with my project, Alan successful installed new navigation lights.  The forward lights were not working due to corrosion.  Sounds like a simple project until you have to route the wires through the bow pulpits and stainless steel tubing.  Port side took 4 tries; starboard only 3.

And yes, the refrigeration gremlin....well....the local repair man came.  He left with the 12 volt compressor system.  He asked if we had a spare control module.  That lead us to rummage through various compartments and lift up the floor boards as we think we have seen one...but alas no pot of gold today.  He will bring the compressor back tomorrow but we are expecting that the refrigeration won't work until January.

And tomorrow...well, rain is expected.  And so is the mechanic to tear apart the port engine and the stainless welder to work a few projects.   Alan will direct traffic; I hope to stay out of the way and busy on my sewing machine.

Monday, October 18, 2010

A Change in the Weather

We awoke today to cloudy skies and much cooler temperatures.  I guess fall is coming and none too soon!

We continue to make great progress on Magic.  Today we repacked the forward line locker (6 x 4 x 3 feet) with our storm anchor, parachute sea anchor, assorted chain, many lines & even a small little outboard engine.  Then it was on to electrical projects -- Alan got the new VHF installed as well as the inverter.  Caroline finished up several canvas projects.  The sign guy came so that project is underway.  The mechanic reappeared and we are going to overhaul the "good" port engine so he will be back to tear it apart later.  We closed out the day by putting the chain (newly marked for 25 foot increments) and new anchor (55 lbs) on the boat.  That ground tackle will help us sleep well at night while we live on the hook.

The yard is getting busy as other cruisers return.  A few weeks ago there were only 3 boats on the hard with owners aboard; now there are 8.  And what an amazing group of people they are.

Most cruisers return with a car fully loaded with all sorts of boat trinkets--everything from motors to peanut butter and wine.  However, one couple arrived today by BIKE!  Yup -- they hauled in February and since then logged 8,500 miles on their BIKES!  From Tucson to Florida to Maine to Montana to British Columbia and then to San Diego.  They did take the bus from San Diego to Guaymas...but wow.  In fact, one of the other boat owners here logged 5,000 miles last summer by bike.  The man says it is his wife's passion and he follows along.  What a good sport!  Alan was drooling and is committed to getting a real bike on board Magic.  We'll see.

Plenty of projects still ahead...but the weather change is most welcome....

We sure hope to see the refrigeration guy soon.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Living & Working on the Hard

It has been 10 long days here in Guaymas.    Believe me this is a working trip to Mexico!

Our typical day runs like:
a.  early am walk to the marina bathroom across the boatyard.  We sometimes walk the malecon before breakfast.
b.  breakfast in the cockpit.
c.  morning projects
d.  mid morning cool drink break
e.  more projects
f.  lunch
g.  afternoon projects
h.  mid afternoon cool drink break
i.  more projects
j.  showers about 6pm
Then we have dinner; walk to marina common area for some internet time AND then to bed by 9pm.

It is totally focused on work.  Our project list mostly goes down -- but as with any boat, we add a few new projects that crop up during the day.

Our main goals have been:
a.  getting the starboard engine rebuilt.  (Alan will do a guest post on this major project!)
b.  getting some stainless work done by a welder
c.  fixing the refrigeration.  This project is stalled and we
and then a 1000 other things....

We have done a bit of local exploring mostly while looking for boat bits and parts.

Everyone we have met and work with has been very helpful and gracious with answering questions and helping us.

I will try and bit more consistent with the blog and get some photos posted.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Guaymas at LAST

AT LAST!

The last 3 days have been on the go while we grind down the 1,300 miles between San Anselmo and Guaymas.  And there is a whole lot of nothing along most of those 1,300 miles so I don't recommend this route to anyone.

We left early Monday with a goal to be in Long Beach at the Viking production center by lunch time to pick up our new life raft.  Along about the grapevine we were surprised to see rain sprinkles -- what rain in LA?  The drizzle lasted the better part of the day.  Anyway we were delighted to find car pool lanes and we zoomed along at the speed limit; found Viking; repacked the car with the raft; and then immediately headed towards Riverside and points east.  We spent Monday night in Blythe CA.  A rather unattractive town with a small selection of tired hotels for weary travelers.

Tuesday we started with a goal to make Tucson by lunch time.  Again, many miles with not much but tumbleweed then suddenly Phoenix; nothing again and then Tucson.   Once in Tucson we found Porter Marine, the authorized Volvo dealer that may work on the engine.  Or they may not.  We have not felt much confidence in them but perhaps by showing up in Tucson and being in Guaymas (where they also work on marine engines) -- well, maybe they will turn out to be the professionals we seek.  We had a great afternoon in Tucson doing a bit of a walking tour of the downtown and eating at a fabulous restaurant.  We also went to the Pima Air Museum and saw hundreds of military and commercial airplanes including a Super Guppy, a Lockheed constellation, and an SR 71 Blackbird.  As we left the museum, another deluge began -- this one complete with thunder and lightening.

Wednesday also began early as we wanted to cross the border and be to Guaymas by mid-afternoon.  I am not sure how it all happened but we got our visas at the border.  We then tried to explain to customs that we had this paper work to show a swap of goods plus we had additional items to declare.  Somehow Alan thought we paid customs at about km 21 -- so he acted like we would pay down the road.  The border custom agent looked in a few bags & tried to believe that we had a liferaft in the back of the car.  I think he was totally fine with telling us to go on and pay at km 21.  But km 21 came and went with no sign of customs or anything official.   We figure this little snafu saved us $120 USD so a bit of honest confusion was a sweet savings.

The boat looks great; it had been washed off in anticipation of our arrival.  We unpacked a few things and have some simple goals for the next few days:  get the trampolines on the foredeck and lifelines up (both safety issues), get the shade awnings in place, begin cleaning and sorting the interior, arranging for the stainless guy to come on site, and having the new Volvo mechanic in town check out the engines.  Actually that sounds like about a week of work in that sentence alone.

It is great to be here.  The weather is hot.  We will keep you posted.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

D-Day Minus 1

D - Day Minus 1 for our departure to Mexico!
Today's challenge was to pack the back of the car with all the gear and boat bits we have collected over the summer.  Good thing that Alan has an incredible spatial knack for finding just the right item to fill a an empty spot.  



GEAR!  Can you find 2 anchors, new laminate and a sink for the galley, alternators, fuses, hoses, wet suits, stainless shackles, and a thousand other bits in this picture?

I am sure it will take us a few weeks once we arrive in Mexico to find it all again.



















We did notice as we were piling the gear in the garage that one of the car tires looked rather flat....and sure enough a trip to the tire repair shop was the first errand.














                
By the end of the day SUCCESS!  The kayaks are on the roof (and have only a few items stashed inside!) and the inside is full.  

We leave at O Dark Hundred tomorrow for Long Beach where we are picking up a Viking Life Raft.  Then we head towards Tucson.  Our goal is to cross into Mexico on Wednesday am.

We are very eager to be our way -- it is 4 months tomorrow that we retired and we are ready for the next adventure.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

UC Davis -- Where the MAGIC Happens!

We had not seen Bryan since we dropped him at Davis in September--so we saved this weekend to re-connect and catch up on all the changes in his life.  He arrived via Amtrak on Friday afternoon and all too soon we were driving him back on Saturday.  But we made the most of our time together!  His classes are all great and he loves his schedule; he has made good friends with several dorm mates; and he is on a flag football intramural team that is just starting up.

Alan was back in his element making breakfast for "his boy."

We did a couple of errands -- better bike lock, notebooks, cold cereal, more shorts.










Back at Davis, we saw the dorm room after being lived in for a couple of weeks.  The bulletin board is filling in!  As Bryan says:  This is where the Magic happens.

We took back all sorts of baked goods for the floor:  apple cake, cupcakes, and bagels.  I would not want to think of 3 Thille C going hungry!









Too soon it was time for goodbyes....at least until Thanksgiving time.











Alan does the Red Horse Century Ride in Napa

Hi, this is a guest contributor, Alan. You may know that I have a passion for cycling, which was re-awakened 5 years ago when invited to attend the weekly Friday 6 a m Red Horse group rides. That Fall I completed my first Century Ride with them, and Oct. 1 rode my fifth Fall Classic, although I only did 60 miles this time.






Awaiting the 8 a m  start, just off Silverado Road, near Napa, here are about half of the riders.










At the first rest stop, getting refreshments.









Besides having a good long ride with many old friends, this ride is a fund raiser for "Team Swift", a young rider development team, and these are three teenage members of the team.

















   I only rode behind them, young bucks!













David Warner, the owner of Red Horse Constructors, a high end home building business, and instigator of the Friday rides and Fall Century rides.

Thank you Dave for all you've done for us bike addicts.

That said, unlike the wayward professionals, we only use drugs for pain relief after these long rides!











Although we all wear the Caballo Rojo  kits(Red Horse for you Gringos), many of us don't work for the company. On the left is Dave Henderson, my hairdresser and on the right, Jason Hight a San Anselmo policeman. I'm impressed that he runs stop signs right along with the rest of us law breakers!













Here we are waiting for a green light in St. Helena. The rider on the right is Tom Knott, who has organized and put on the Century rides for years. Thank you Tom for all you've done for us! Each year it's been a new course, with sag wagon support, rest stops, lunch and a great meal at the end of the day.











At the last rest stop, this is me and Michael Houts, who is a long time friend, and it was he who invited me to ride with Red Horse some five years ago. Michael has worked for many years at Red Horse and is a key estimator and project overseer, and my great friend!





 



At the end of the ride, we relaxed at where we started, a home that Red Horse built.


A very nice end to a beautiful day!