Thursday, May 31, 2012

For the Love of a Mango

Bahia San Marte. 25.30.200N and 111.01.047W

Yup, we are now planning our cruising around getting fresh fruits and vegetables. For the love of a mango; a pineapple; some carrots. In this part of the Sea (and other places north) there are no small towns so no way to re-provision.

We moved down to Aqua Verde about 5 or 6 days ago; we planned to move on when the small tienda received their weekly truck delivery. That turned out to be today. So we loaded up our bags with food to stretch out for 2 weeks; kayaked back to Magic; pulled the hook and turned the corner south. We went all of 7 nautical miles to Bahia San Marte: a quiet bay with several sand/gravel beaches backed by colorful, rocky hills. This is a new anchorage for us! We already jumped into the water and snorkeled on Punta San Marte: enormous and colorful parrotfish were spotted easily. I also watched a spotted snake eel (kind of wanted to swim back from that one) and a barberfish "clean" a client fish by nimbling off parasites! The water is definitely losing that green color but it is cold again and we are back in those wetsuits.

We will be here for a few days and as long as conditions stay mild. Then we will continue our slow ride back to LaPaz.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Sitting Out Southerlies

We moved south and returned to Bahia Candeleros -- just a bit ahead of some brisk southerlies.  This bay features a nearly empty resort -- with a nice WiFi signal -- so a fine place for a few days.  The bay is large and holds maybe 15-20 boats easily:  someone is always coming and going so the neighborhood keeps changing.

We have been busy kayaking; Alan did snorkel a bit but the water was too green for me to jump in.  We walked into the nearby village of Ensenada Blanca and found a sign saying they had received electricity in 2010!  Maybe as part of a deal to put this upscale resort on the beach?? Who knows.

We are waiting for winds with a bit of north in them:  then we will head south to Agua Verde.  We will spend some time there and then slowly continue heading south to LaPaz.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Look MA .....no wetsuit

Hello from Balandra on Isla Carmen. 26.01.173 N and 111.09.806 W
We moved here from Vcove on Friday....just ahead of the north wind that would make that anchorage a real washing machine. We have been in Balandra several times -- one place that offers great protection and all the best of cruising in the Sea: hiking, snorkeling, fishing, arroyo walking, hiking, rocky mountain views. We really enjoy our days here.
And finally, the water is warming up....so we have shed those wetsuits and snorkel only in lycra suits designed to protect us from the ubiquitous jellies and stingers. The warming water however has led to several green blooms so visibility isn't so great...but we are loving the water time. And we are seeing dolphins and turtles often; I am hoping for some whales too.
Today we motored early over to Loreto on the Baja peninsula for a provisioning run at the Sunday morning farmer's market. Just like Marin except, well, this is Mexico! But choices were good, the fruits and veggies fresh, the prices right. From the market we went to a grocery store for a few essentials. Stash it all on the boat; try for some internet (not so great at the Mision Hotel) and then lunch and ice cream. We had the crew from s/v Eagle along so fun for all.
Like good cruisers we are watching the weather...now we want a light northerly wind as we begin our slow return journey to LaPaz.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

What a Difference a Day Makes!

We have spent a few days at V-cove on the north side of Isla Carmen -- off of the small Baja town of Loreto. We came north from the south side of Isla Carmen to avoid the forecast southerly winds -- and blow they did yesterday! The anchorage is at the mouth of an arroyo so that tends to funnel the wind but it was really boisterous and, in my opinion, totally not fun. Safe -- but not fun. We went ashore and hiked for several hours. One of the 4 boats in the anchorage had everyone for dinner. Great fun.

This morning Alan went fishing with Tom from s/v Eagle. He is a master fisher and Alan wanted to go along and pick up tips. I think he had fun both trolling and bottom fishing from the dinghy. They came home with dinner! And later Tom brought over a small tuna he caught around sunset. Alan is going to try his hand at fishing again tomorrow. It makes more sense to fish from the dinghy as you can do it anytime not just while you are underway in the big boat.

We kayaked this afternoon -- looking again at the cliffs and caves and rocks. We found a small seagull rookery -- and there was a tiny feathery chick on the rocks! That was the highlight!

The southerly winds are due to finish tomorrow (today was pleasantly breezy) so we are debating our next move. We need to go to Loreto for some fresh provisions. There is only an open roadstead anchorage there so it is a go in; drop the hook; shop & eat (mostly ice cream) and move on.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Rare Bird Photographs

May 15

Yesterday we invited folks from s/v Eagle over for sun downers. We had spoken on the radio several days ago and they parked near us. Over the course of a few hours we got to know each other and shared stories of our adventures. Tom & Jeanne are from the Seattle area and this is their first year cruising in Mexico. They are both photographers, amongst other things, and Tom loves to find rare birds to digitally capture, and add to his "Life List". Several weeks ago they were in Agua Verde. Tom was exploring the town and finding several new to him birds. A young boy came along and watched him for a while and Tom tried in his limited Spanish to say "Aves Foto...". Soon Tom was working his way around a tree with a Vermilion Flycatcher in it. After getting several good shots, he realized the boy had wandered off, but a short time later reappeared with a mangy chicken under his arm. Tom did take a portrait, but the bird was not added to his life list...

V Cove on Isla Carmen

26 03.494N 111 05.121W May 15

It only took 2 1/2 hours to travel around two points and move from the S.E. side of Isla Carmen to the North side, in this small V shaped cove. The bottom is all sand and the sides of the cove are vertical rock walls, and the wind is greater due to the narrow cove. After setting the anchor in 24 feet of water, with 125' of chain out, Caroline had concern that we were too close to the Starboard side rock wall. I guessed 75' and was challenged to a measurement. We dropped a kayak and strung a line, then measured it: 118'. Since that's about the same as the chain we have out, we figured the space was deceptively smaller looking, but really no problem.

After lunch we launched the other kayak and went exploring. What was found were about 8 to 10 sea caves we could enter, several very long and several that had strange sound effects, due to swell going in & out. There must have been cavities we couldn't see but the swell was forced in and out making groaning, burping, and even growls like lions! Then we found one that gushed so much forced air, we got blown backwards! Thrilling to say the least. They were also very colorful and cool in temperature, being, well caves.

Other exploring found us watching dolphins, a turtle, a Cortez rainbow wrasse (look for a picture of this) and many round sting rays. Earlier, when moving Magic over here we saw a pod of whales, a few that even broached! Also about 5 pods of dolphins, but this day they didn't come to play in our bow wave, perhaps because there were babies traveling with them.

The sun is about to set with the West facing hillside aglow. We're the only boat here, and the view off the back porch is an expansive view of the Sea of Cortez. Having no town nearby and a late rising moon, the night stars should be spectacular.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

A Mother's Day to Remember

We moved yesterday to Bahia Salinas on the east/north side of Isla Carmen. (25.59N and 111.06W) This is a wide open bay offering protection from the north winds -- that are to blow mildly for the next couple of days. We waited for the wind to come up before leaving Candeleros -- but nothing; at least till we were ready to anchor! It could have been a spinnaker run... Alan also caught a hefty size fish, a black skipjack, that is reputed to be about the worst tasting fish that swims. Back he went in the dink!

Salinas is the site of an abandoned salt mining operation -- a real ghost town with just one resident caretaker. We set off early to hike back through the ponds and to the hills on the west side but turns out access is limited to protect the big horned sheep. Well, that is exactly what we wanted to see -- so no joy. We could hike on the eastern hills and so we did. Out past the abandoned garbage pit. But as we walked along I spotted a real treasure: a worked arrowhead -- about 39 cm by 20 cm. It was white and looks like white quartz. We have had several conversations imaging the early man who worked the tip and hunted in this area. We kept hiking but it became a steep scramble amidst slippery rock and eventually had to turn back. Oh yeah, and that's when we stumbled on to the (recently) dead big horn sheep. Not exactly what we had in mind! Down, down, down we came. Then I spotted a sparkling rock that is a piece of geode. WOW. It was all very exciting.

We made it back to the dinghy and back to Magic. We will walk the beach later this evening when it cools (94 in the cabin at 3pm). We expect to be here a couple more days: Alan is going to troll for fish and we both want to snorkel a wreck (120 foot tuna boat that is awash) here in the bay. Then we will continue around the island counterclockwise picking anchorages based on forecast wind direction.

Friday, May 11, 2012

Love that WiFi

We are anchored in Bahia Candeleros -- just south of Loreto -- and enjoying the free WiFi signal of an upscale resort.   Here are some pictures from our last few weeks.

Fish for Dinner!

A Sea Cave on the East side of Isla Espiritu Santo

In the sea cave looking out

Flying the spinnaker!

The solar panels that totally changed our energy picture.  Crank it out!

Isla Coyote 

Kayaking the mangroves at Isla San Jose

Sunset over the Baja peninsula from Isla San Jose

Lobster for Dinner

We donated some English - Spanish books to the school in AquaVerde.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Another Day at Anchor

Several sunny days passed at anchor at Aqua Verde, a delightful small Mexican village.  Boats are coming and going, often stopping for a few days to pick up a few provisions and enjoy the tranquil anchorage.  We have been enchanted with our days.

The Captain started off the morning by slaying the latest boat gremlin.  We could barely hear the Sonrisa Ham Net weather forecast in the morning.   Geary, the "volunteer" weather man, has a mega ham rig only a few hundred miles up the Baja in Bahia Conception -- but we could hardly pick up his signal.  We could do ham email ok; buy listening to the weather and other boat check ins, well, it just was a frustration with low sound level.  Alan changed out the copper foil ground; he redid the connection between antenna and tuner; no difference.  Then someone suggested we turn off our solar panels.  Ah Ha.  At the hour of the net, they were hardly in the sun--but could the new controller be the problem?  It is mounted right next to the tuner and they share the same ground.  So--we turned off everything (pumps, refrigeration, etc) and waited for the Net.  And by golly -- it came booming in.  And if you threw the solar panel breakers -- there went the Net.  Gremlin slain and one less project to do.

Then we loaded up the dinghy and off we went to Roca Solitaria for a snorkel.  We donned wet suits and all the gear -- we had good visibility and saw both reef fish and larger sport fish.  Once around the rock took about an hour and then off we went.  We stopped to say hello to another boat; heard the veggies had been delivered in town.  Back to Magic for a quick change and then to the village.  We finished our provisioning and while leaving the beach spotted another friend had arrived.  Stop by to say hello to Ruby Red and scored a lunch invitation featuring fresh baked rolls.  (Oh, those big old power boats have all the toys!).  Back to Magic for a quick shower and then off to another boat for sundowners and a round of Mexican train dominoes.

Home by sunset....take down the awnings and fix a bit to eat.  We will head north to Bahia Candeleros for a few nights.  This Bahia features a new exclusive resort complete with a WiFi signal that smokes the anchorage and a pool that cruisers can use.  It is time to enjoy the trappings of civilization!!




Sunday, May 6, 2012

Now We Are Cruising!

25 31./048N 111 02.456W

The Magicians have left the clutches of LaPaz -- leaving the big city lights and services behind. In a week we have moved north about 95 miles north--enjoying new anchorages, relishing in the variety of sea life, meeting other cruisers. Here is a typical day:

Thursday we ducked into San Evaristo to sit out a day of northern winds. It is a small fishing village; we did not go ashore. Friday morning the winds were calm; the San Jose Channel flat; the forecast benign. The anchor was itching to move so the captain called for Magic to head north. We had a fabulous current push up the channel and along the way: whales, flipping rays, gorgeous mountain scenery. Only 25 miles along we headed into Timbabiche; a large open bay with a small point providing north wind protection. We did not even have the anchor down when the local fisherman, Manuel, came along and asked if we wanted any fish, scallops, lobster??? How fast can you say YES! We gave him a bit of gasoline and off he went. We spent the afternoon exploring a large lagoon (where a Cardinal was seen) and the rocky point by kayak. It is hard to describe the range of colors; the rugged scenery; the flash of fish; the dolphins feeding in the soft light of sunset; the open and empty feeling of space.

Friday night we feasted on huge lobster tails (each lobster was about 2 lbs) and watched the nearly full moon explode in the sky.

Then of course, this being a boat, there was a boat moment at about 1am. Most of these moments are in the middle of the night. A small southern swell snuck in the anchorage and we rolled just enough to trigger the bilge pump in the forward port locker. It was a bit of a drill to figure out what the noise was (first just to fully awaken from a deep sleep) and then we had to empty the locker and sponge out a few cups of water. Oh well. Everything was back together in a few minutes, the swell disappeared and sound sleep resumed. Today we will figure out where the water came from....we want no repeat of that dance!

Saturday morning we toasted Bryan -- he has graduated into his 20s. And because light southerlies were forecast, we moved north. The anchorages along the way were inviting but open to the south. So "around the corner" at Punta San Marcial we went -- and there we could see Roca Solataria the gateway to Bahia Aqua Verde. We anchored east of the village -- seeing no signs of the village but hearing the fishing pangas as they pass. We jumped in the water which is still cold at 76 degrees but the cabin temp hit 95! Welcome to the sea.

We will sit here till the north winds return and then move over to an anchorage near the village (2 miles) for better protection and provisioning. We look off our stern and see Isla Carmen, Isla Monserrat, Isla Danzante, and the Candeleros. A multitude of islands and anchorages for the next couple of weeks. The full moon shinning on a dead flat, calm surface last night was truly amazing!

It has been a joy to stay in 5 new to us anchorages and know that there are so many more out here to visit. That is one of the great features of this part of the Sea. Determine the expected wind direct and move to a cove that gives protection and new waters to explore.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Cinco de Mayo

25 16.265N 110 56.434W Timbabichi

Bryan,

Last night we had a great dinner of lobster (traded w/fisherman for gas) and went to bed in this delightful place, with flat seas, no wind and a HUGE full moon. In the reflected light of this moon I could see the object all the fish, what they were jumping out of the water for, millions of little bugs. Other than the noise of fish feeding, it was delightfully tranquil place.

So we went to bed. Then in the middle of the night, we were awaken by both a rolling swell and the noise of a forward bilge pump, going on/off/on/off/on, driving me crazy. I had to empty out the contents of the lazarette and climb down to the bottom and sponge out a small amount of water, to get the pump shut off. Magic is still rolling side to side as much as she can (a mono hull boat anchored by us was having a worse time of it) in this flat calm w/swell and as I go back to bed, Caroline decides to sleep in the cockpit. Looking at the clock I see it's after 1 a m and lying in bed I realize and call out: "HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRYAN!!!"

Yes, we are thinking of you, even in the middle of the night. That's fitting, because 20 years ago, you came to us at 12:25 a m. We hope you have a splendid day celebrating your birth! A mile stons has happened and you are no longer a teen ager. We hope you enjoy this decade as much as the last one!

LOVE, dad & mom

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Slowly Sailing North

Magic left LaPaz last Friday after a wonderful week of relaxing, meeting new friends, and totally changing our plans for the rest of this cruising season, about six weeks in length. We will make our way as far north to Loreto (about 120 miles one way) before returning to LaPaz. This will be day sails -- no more night passages (yeah). We are determined to try new anchorages & explore all the Sea has to offer.

So far: 5 nights with 4 anchorages -- 3 of them are new to us! Along the way, Alan caught the first edible fish, a small Bonito! We explored a sea cave by dinghy; kayaked through a mangrove swamp; and hiked up an old volcano. Traded 2 cokes (and 1 packet of cookies) for about 3 meals of fresh fish. We are moving slowly with an eye towards weather windows. We sailed the whole way from Partida to Isla San Francisco (north east side) including several hours by spinnaker.

The water is incredible shades of aquas, blues, greens and this contrasts with the stark desert islands and towering Sierra de la Giganta along the Baja coast. The night sky is densely packed with stars. We have rolled a bit at night -- comes with the territory!

We expect to be in San Evaristo (back on the Baja Peninsula) within a day or two and sit out several days of northern weather. Although the days are warm/hot, the nights have been down to the low 70's. Life is good out here!