Thursday, June 28, 2012

Back in the Saddle

Tucson is a bike friendly community -- bike lanes, a bike freeway, and many multi-use bike trails.  So we woke up early (before 6am) to beat the heat and were in the saddle for the first time in months.  Our hotel is only a few blocks from the Santa Cruz River Trail.   We rode for 30 minutes and then turned around and rode back sharing the trail with other cyclists, joggers, and dog walkers.  It felt great to be out and riding again.  The training for the Selkirk Loop ride in Idaho later this summer has officially begun.

We will be leaving Tucson today heading east a bit and then north.  Mostly we want to find some altitude so we can escape the oppressive heat wave.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

From Captain to Co-Pilot

Alan's story.

Today was scheduled to be a long one, but little did we know what would transpire. Last week we booked a flight from La Paz to Guaymas, the least expensive way to get near to where our car has been stored these past 5 months. So it was a day to get up early, close up Magic, catch a cab and get to the airport to be there an hour before our 0725 flight. At gate 3 we found no information about the flights leaving, just a man speaking Spanish, so each time people lined up, I asked if it was the flight to Guaymas. The third time was a charm, and we walked across the tarmac with 11 other passengers to our Cessna 208-B, single engine 12 passenger plane. Since I was # 13 and last in line, I got directed to the cockpit, in the Co-Pilot's seat! What a shock and thrill it became! I've never had but a side view on a plane, and here I not only could see 180 degrees out front, but watch what the pilot actually did, see the gauges, and for 1 1/2 hour, look at the islands we've been anchoring next to, and the Sea of Cortez we've crossed. Even though we were flying on auto pilot, lots of adjustments were being made and even a page of notes jotted down en-route. And the landing, coming in at 65' over the highway before touching down on the end of the runway! Being in a 5 strap seat belt sure gave security when it seemed we were going to nose dive in! An experience never to be forgotten.
In Guaymas we got a cab to the car storage yard, and "Monty" started right up, no problem. 8 hours later, with three shrimp tacos for fuel, we crossed the boarder at Nogales and an hour later were checked into our room in Tucson. After dinner and baths, we're going to get a good night's rest, 17 hours after getting up this morning.

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Jacques Cousteau on the Malecon

The newest statue along the malecon in La Paz is of Jacques Cousteau.  I don't know how he was selected to be honored; his is the only true likeness along the entire waterfront.  We enjoyed his whimsical smile!





Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Season 2 Pictures

Here are some favorite pictures from season 2.

DOLPHINS!  I never tire of the sea life.

Blue Footed Boobies at Isla Isabella

Spring Break in Punta Mita:  Time to Paddle Board

Good Bye Time at the PV Airport

Fruits and Veges -- fresh and cheap

The Captain and Crew -- it's time for ice cream!

Let's Go Sailing!

The Classroom at Aqua Verde

Vermillion Flycatcher in the arroyo at Aqua Verde

Sky, Water, Rocks


Our last day heading into LaPaz.  No wind till we anchor or sleep.


My arrow head find from Isla Carmen

Solar Panels:  refrigeration but NO HONDA GENERATOR all season!

Season 2 Wrap Up

We are anchored back in LaPaz.  Our final trip down from the islands was essentially non-eventful.  A huge whale carcass was the biggest sea life we spotted.  And in Baja fashion, the only wind was during the anchoring drill.  LaPaz has a wicked current vs wind dynamic affectionately call the LaPaz waltz.  Boats all respond differently to current and wind combinations and what looks like plenty of space can suddenly be "too close" for comfort.  We have re-anchored once; tomorrow we are headed into the marina.  The end of season 2.

So -- in almost hindsight -- here are some thoughts on season 2.

1.  Magic has continued to get a face lift this season:  huge solar panels, new refrigeration, shelving and drawers in the pantry, new cockpit seats, 2 dependable engines, bottom paint and new topside paint. Magic is absolutely a different boat and living platform than season 1.  "Sun is shining and the living is easy."  This is a HUGE improvement over last year's ongoing issues.  The last job will be to re-rig Magic this fall.  Then her face lift will be complete and we will truly be in the maintenance mode.

2.  We sailed Magic more this year.  We motored more than we liked:  wind on the nose or too light from behind.  We did not push the boat and ourselves yet.  Maybe with the new rig.  Maybe if we had an asymmetrical sail.  We will see next year.

3.  The mainland of Mexico (Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta) was our destination this year.  We loved the old part of Mazatlan but don't care for the harbor anchorage.  Sure, it is better than 10 years ago, but security remains an issue.  Isla Isabella was a treat with the bird life.  Puerto Vallarta was a great time:  Bryan's spring break visit, learning to paddle board at Punta Mita, exploring the "new" La Cruz, and experiencing the malecon and old town of Puerto Vallarta.  Banderas Bay was a long way to go....worth the effort and time but not something will be do again next year.

4.  The Sea of Cortez -- we just returned from a 7 week trip up and back to Loreto.  The days of our type of cruising have finally arrived!  Many anchorages to suit the day's wind, no overnight passages, like minded cruisers, and incredible sea life.  It was a great time -- maybe a bit better water clarity, but we realize that spring is a swing time as the sea warms and the summer southerlies fill in.

We have decided that season 3 we will base out of La Paz.  In the fall we will drive down the Baja and see the peninsula from a car at 50 miles per hour!  I am going to take Spanish lessons.  Christmas will be here.  Magic will be in and out of the islands and in the La Paz vicinity for several months before beginning to work our way slowly back to Loreto--following signs of spring and sea life.  Plan on visiting us!!

So...what is next for Magic and the crew?  We are headed to the marina where we will clean and pack up the boat, measure for all new standing rigging, and leave Magic for the hurricane season.  When Magic is closed up, we will head to San Carlos (probably by plane) to pick up our car and then head north.  We plan on camping, backpacking, cycling, and visiting family and friends for several months before heading south again.  Viva Mexico!

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Killer Whale!

On our second (and successful) attempt at leaving Isla San Francisco for Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida -- we saw our first Killer Whale! We were sitting out on the deck looking for sea life: you won't see anything if you don't look. We saw the dorsal fin and knew immediately that this was no dolphin: we watched it slowly move off to starboard and with each surfacing there was this huge, upright dorsal fin, about 4' tall! It was so exciting! I did not call out to the whale to come and play with my bow waves, however.

So we did arrive and anchor at one of our favorite spots only to discover that about 5 days ago the water turned very green and visibility dropped from 20 feet to about 4 feet. Bummer, as we were hoping for a few more great snorkels. Maybe in December?

Oh yeah, when we first left Isla San Francisco this morning we left our flat, calm quiet north anchorage and rounded the point to head south and met the remnants of last night's local corumel winds. Nasty chop and swell--no winds though. We buried the bows a few times and said this is no fun (not in so many words, mind you!) and tucked back into another anchorage. About 90 minutes later the swells were down and off we went.

We will be here for a few days. Then into LaPaz for a day or two an anchor before going into the marina to put the boat away. The daily highs in LaPaz are running over 100 and we figure it will be slow going as we aren't used to this much heat yet. Ice cream will help, and we're even dreaming about that needed product...

24.33.4N
110.23.9W

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

The Times They Are A Changing

San Evaristo 24.54N 110.42W

We had left Aqua Verde and moved several miles south to San Marte--an anchorage we had long wanted to explore. We spent a quiet night in San Marte and in the morning we dropped the kayaks. And then the south east wind began to ripple the water. Faster than you can imagine, we had swell and chop in the anchorage; the kayaks were back on deck; the engines started; and we gracefully retreated 7 miles back to Aqua Verde. It is wonderful to have so many places to hide! So next year we will return to San Marte!

We sat in Aqua Verde a few more days: hiked to see cave paintings, did a bit of fishing, and snorkeled. We saw a 4' moray eel swallow a fish carcass in one gulp. I was very keen to swim away quickly as the aquarium had suddenly become the web of life!

With the abating winds we again pointed our bow south -- a night in San Telmo and then today to San Evaristo. The winds are all southerly so this is a slog for us. We left early: the full moon west over the Gigante mountains and the sun barely peaking east over the sea.

Tomorrow on to Isla San Francisco for kayaking, snorkeling, and beachcombing. In the hazy distance we can see Isla Partida; tonight we will probably see the lights of LaPaz. We are keen to taste ice cream after many weeks of small fish camps without this basic necessity. Season #2 is drawing to a close and we are eager to enjoy our final moments out here!