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| Alan and Warren |
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| Wulzen duo |
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| One of many blooms in the garden |
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| Alan and Linda. And all that GREAT Wine |
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Family Days
Our trip up the coast brought the opportunity to visit family along the way. Alan's niece Linda owns and operates The Wine Closet in Camarillo so we stopped and shopped. Then on to Pismo Beach to connect with brother Warren and Diane; and a Sunday afternoon with Joanna and Clint. Fun days!
Friday, April 26, 2013
Border Crossing Blues
We headed to the border crossing at Tecate, a thriving town east of Tijuana. I am convinced that to be a Border Crossing Agent, one has to basically believe everyone is determined to sneak themselves or contraband into the USA. And those lonely Agents are the only bastion of defense against us, the lawless, unwashed horde.
We managed to get in the line of an exceptionally thorough Agent. This was so not a moment of Magic! There are 2 customs lines at Tecate, and the other line was moving along. We were sitting. Our Agent was banging on door panels, climbing on the roof of cars, looking under cars. Generally trying to see if he could annoy the crap out of the entire line. But...when it is finally your turn, you smile, you try and chat him up, you just try to get through the line.
So it is established that we have been in Mexico for six months. We have a boat. We are heading (eventually) to Seattle. Oh yes. We have a few raisins and a few dates. A loaf of bread. No fresh nothing. No meat. No soil. No plants. Well, those raisins and dates are enough to require a consultation by a food and agriculture specialist. Please go park your car over there. Sure. Thanks. Just take the raisins and dates.
So we sit and wait till another very nice Agent shows up to question us. We show her the raisins and dates. (Take the bloody things and let us go!!!). This transgression will require an inspection of the ENTIRE car. We get to go sit and watch 4 agents have a field day. So what did they find? My seashells!! And because I had more than 2 shells, oops, I should have had a permit to export them from Mexico and import them into the USA. More than 2 seashells? Get a permit for having more than 2 seashells? Of course, they make you feel like a creepy sleaze, but assure you this is just a warning, blah, blah, blah. At least they did not TAKE my seashells. They didn't say anything about the big hunks of onxy or other rocks we had stashed. And those raisins and dates -- no problem.
Bye. Welcome back to America. Gee. Time for rush hour traffic.
We managed to get in the line of an exceptionally thorough Agent. This was so not a moment of Magic! There are 2 customs lines at Tecate, and the other line was moving along. We were sitting. Our Agent was banging on door panels, climbing on the roof of cars, looking under cars. Generally trying to see if he could annoy the crap out of the entire line. But...when it is finally your turn, you smile, you try and chat him up, you just try to get through the line.
So it is established that we have been in Mexico for six months. We have a boat. We are heading (eventually) to Seattle. Oh yes. We have a few raisins and a few dates. A loaf of bread. No fresh nothing. No meat. No soil. No plants. Well, those raisins and dates are enough to require a consultation by a food and agriculture specialist. Please go park your car over there. Sure. Thanks. Just take the raisins and dates.
So we sit and wait till another very nice Agent shows up to question us. We show her the raisins and dates. (Take the bloody things and let us go!!!). This transgression will require an inspection of the ENTIRE car. We get to go sit and watch 4 agents have a field day. So what did they find? My seashells!! And because I had more than 2 shells, oops, I should have had a permit to export them from Mexico and import them into the USA. More than 2 seashells? Get a permit for having more than 2 seashells? Of course, they make you feel like a creepy sleaze, but assure you this is just a warning, blah, blah, blah. At least they did not TAKE my seashells. They didn't say anything about the big hunks of onxy or other rocks we had stashed. And those raisins and dates -- no problem.
Bye. Welcome back to America. Gee. Time for rush hour traffic.
El Marmol
Onward we go -- north up the Baja. And our goal was El Marmol, an now abandoned onyx mine about 10 miles off the paved road. During its heyday (turn of the century until 1950s), blocks of onyx were mined and transported north for use in buildings and as decorative objects. When onyx fell from common use, the town fell into disrepair.
We wanted to see the school house that remains (built entirely from onyx) and we wanted to find a few lovely rocks to add to our Baja collection.
Then on we drove -- till the cooling breezes of the Pacific and a marine fog layer greeted us. I guess the shorts season is over for awhile!
We wanted to see the school house that remains (built entirely from onyx) and we wanted to find a few lovely rocks to add to our Baja collection.
Then on we drove -- till the cooling breezes of the Pacific and a marine fog layer greeted us. I guess the shorts season is over for awhile!
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| Abandoned School built of onyx blocks. Onyx blocks are just lying on the ground. |
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| A View into the distance.... |
An Oasis Town -- San Ignacio
The trip up the Baja Peninsula on the Trans-peninsula Highway feasts the eyes on rocks, mountains, volcanoes, cactus, and occasionally, the Sea of Cortez or Pacific Ocean. But think: harsh, barren, brown. For hundreds of miles. Truly it is an amazing experience: miles and miles of a 2 lane road winding up and down the rugged terrain. A few other travellers and the occasional long haul truckers broke the scene.
Oh yeah, and the drug check points (we had 5 total) where the solders were friendly, polite, and curious about items packed in the back of the car. The cribbage board was really a puzzle to them and I never did figure out how to explain the game in Spanish..... We gave them cookies after they waved us on. What a lonely life.
We were into day 2 of heading north and our goal was San Ignacio -- a small oasis town with a splendid old cathedral from the mission days. And lots of green trees! We found a wonderful guest home with a garden and towering trees. And small world: the owner was a Drake High School Graduate (from many, many years ago!) We didn't think that BULLFROGS would be hiding along the creek, and what a racket they made all night! We also bought a few dates that are grown locally.
The mission was started in the early 1700s, lasted awhile and then the Indians died off. I don't know when the rebuilding occurred.
In the mountains north of San Ignacio, there are enormous rock paintings. We weren't up for the 3 day hike to the paintings, so we visited the small museum and imaged how the "larger than life size" animals and humans were painted on the overhangs of cliffs 20 feet above ground. A mystery.
Oh yeah, and the drug check points (we had 5 total) where the solders were friendly, polite, and curious about items packed in the back of the car. The cribbage board was really a puzzle to them and I never did figure out how to explain the game in Spanish..... We gave them cookies after they waved us on. What a lonely life.
We were into day 2 of heading north and our goal was San Ignacio -- a small oasis town with a splendid old cathedral from the mission days. And lots of green trees! We found a wonderful guest home with a garden and towering trees. And small world: the owner was a Drake High School Graduate (from many, many years ago!) We didn't think that BULLFROGS would be hiding along the creek, and what a racket they made all night! We also bought a few dates that are grown locally.
The mission was started in the early 1700s, lasted awhile and then the Indians died off. I don't know when the rebuilding occurred.
In the mountains north of San Ignacio, there are enormous rock paintings. We weren't up for the 3 day hike to the paintings, so we visited the small museum and imaged how the "larger than life size" animals and humans were painted on the overhangs of cliffs 20 feet above ground. A mystery.
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| Mission Church in San Ignacio |
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| Quite the Interior |
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| The Virgin of Guadalupe |
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| Cactus in Bloom outside the church |
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| Rock Art in the Area..life size figures painted 20 feet up on the cliff side |
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Flying High to the Hard
Hauling the boat onto the hard. Sounds a bit like a challenge given to a wayward sailor....
For us it marks the end of the season and the milestone of the last 10 days of work. Packing up means everything is stripped from the boat (lines, sails, dinghy) and given a good soaking in fresh water. It means a couple of trips to the top of the mast to collect wind instruments and antennas. It means figuring out how to minimize the heat in the boat when outside temps will easily top 100 everyday. It means covering every port and hatch with soft cloth, insulated tin, and canvas covers. This year it meant sewing a 20 x 22 foot awning to lash over the boom and cockpit to protect the dinghy and both kayaks. It means measuring and keeping a list of everything to bring back in the fall to put Magic back together for the next season. (Our list this year is pretty tame: a few bolts, engine trinkets, tramps, new mast head light, etc). And it means figuring out what to take along for our 5 months on the road. So yeah, it means alot of work. And we managed to coordinate it with the first HOT day of the season.
And then the captain drives the boat into the ditch, works with the crew to set the straps to avoid all the goodies on the bottom (props, sail drives, transducers, etc) and find the balance point so no tipping! (We do have pictures to help get the straps set right -- but it is always a juggle time.)
It all went off like a charm and we were very grateful for Zeke's assistance.
At this point as we are a day down the road: out of sight and out of mind.
For us it marks the end of the season and the milestone of the last 10 days of work. Packing up means everything is stripped from the boat (lines, sails, dinghy) and given a good soaking in fresh water. It means a couple of trips to the top of the mast to collect wind instruments and antennas. It means figuring out how to minimize the heat in the boat when outside temps will easily top 100 everyday. It means covering every port and hatch with soft cloth, insulated tin, and canvas covers. This year it meant sewing a 20 x 22 foot awning to lash over the boom and cockpit to protect the dinghy and both kayaks. It means measuring and keeping a list of everything to bring back in the fall to put Magic back together for the next season. (Our list this year is pretty tame: a few bolts, engine trinkets, tramps, new mast head light, etc). And it means figuring out what to take along for our 5 months on the road. So yeah, it means alot of work. And we managed to coordinate it with the first HOT day of the season.
And then the captain drives the boat into the ditch, works with the crew to set the straps to avoid all the goodies on the bottom (props, sail drives, transducers, etc) and find the balance point so no tipping! (We do have pictures to help get the straps set right -- but it is always a juggle time.)
It all went off like a charm and we were very grateful for Zeke's assistance.
At this point as we are a day down the road: out of sight and out of mind.
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| Zeke -- The Boat Guy |
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| Into the ditch. 10 inches to spare on each side! Going VERY SLOW till lines tossed |
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| Squeezing into the ditch--keep those yellow blocks off my topsides! |
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| Now we are flying! Next stop: pressure wash the bottom; then block her up for summer |
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| Resting in place while they find the right size blocks. |
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
The Backwards Kayak Race
The cruising community in La Paz celebrates the end of the cruising season with an annual Bay Fest: games, food, wine tasting, and seminars. I attended a beading class, a card making class, and a pressure cooking seminar. Alan opted to focus on the Backwards Kayaking Race.
It was an intense competition--4 other adults--most of whom had probably NOT kayaked forward -- much less backward-- in a few years. Alan kayaked over from the marina and figured out his technique. And when race started he was on his game. He squirted out from the start line, made it past the Mexican flag mark, and was back to the beach before most of the others had gotten going in a straight line.
And for all his effort: a bottle of tequila, a T shirt, and Bay Fest bragging rights!
It was an intense competition--4 other adults--most of whom had probably NOT kayaked forward -- much less backward-- in a few years. Alan kayaked over from the marina and figured out his technique. And when race started he was on his game. He squirted out from the start line, made it past the Mexican flag mark, and was back to the beach before most of the others had gotten going in a straight line.
And for all his effort: a bottle of tequila, a T shirt, and Bay Fest bragging rights!
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| Alan getting ready for the race |
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| Getting a quick start & away from the crowd |
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| Artsy shot of kayaks |
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| And, the winner is ....... |
Magical Moments
We are safely on the hard; everything is almost wrapped up tight. Life on the hard is just that: HARD. Also dirty. But magical moments continued for us over the last few days. Here are a few.
A new sail! We decided to add an asymmetrical spinnaker to our sail wardrobe and priced new (made in Thailand) or used from the states. But we wanted a professional to do the measuring -- so called the local sailmaker. When we described what we were looking forward they surprised us by saying they had an asymmetrical on consignment at the shop: would we want to look it over? YES! While I did care if the sail fit -- I really wanted a colorful sail, one that would be as fun to see as to use. Upon inspection we found the sail to be a mix of yellows, oranges, reds, and purple. And it was only a few feet short. But for only 1/3 the price: SOLD! So the skipper is eager to get back this fall and give it a try.
Zeke! Last week, well in advance of our haul out we came down to the Singular Marina to do our paperwork, confirm the date, and generally check out the place. It is a bit out of town and and is entered via a narrow & shallow channel. While wandering around we got to talking to another cruiser who was hauling there; he introduced us to Zeke the Boat Guy. Turns out Zeke has been working on sailboats for years, learning the trade and fabulous English with the Moorings Charter Company. He left there (crappy pay) and began working on yachts and mega yachts. Zeke took a few years off and is now back on the scene and opening up a small work yard here in the Marina. We immediately enlisted his help for our yard work in October and he offered to help us when we hauled. Great. Then, on Saturday before our haul he showed up in Marina Cortez and offered to be aboard while we moved the boat--OK? YES!
Zeke and his wife showed up; and with Alan moved Magic and I drove the car. And he knew exactly where to take the boat and kept Alan safely in the little deep water there was! He interpreted through out the haul (knows the lift operators) and did all the trouble shooting. Did it make our day easier!! Zeke kept asking: what can I so, how can I help. Down came the tramps, the wind generator, the kayaks got moved, the awnings got up. And at the end, when we asked "how much" he said, just tip me. We will be working together in the fall so it is ok. Well, we tipped him! And leave today, confident of his ability to keep an eye on Magic all summer, especially if any hurricanes come blowing through.
A Saved Whale! We were hard at work on Sunday morning when the call came over the radio: "Attention the fleet, Attention the fleet. There is a whale stuck on the sand bar just outside the channel near buoy 8." There followed a group conversation among the cruisers of what to do and how to respond. Within an hour or two, all the authorities (Mexican Navy, Port officials, wildlife organizations) were on site and working to get the whale moved off; even on a dropping tide. Through out the day we would hear updates. I so did not want a whale to die on my last day in La Paz. The whales and sea life have touched us so much here; esp this year because I petted a baby whale. And by late afternoon came the news, the whale had been pulled off; backwards by 2 pangas working in tandem. WOW. It just lifted our spirits.
Last Dinner! We declared victory last night about 7pm, took showers, and headed downtown for a final meal. Having no plan we just walked into a seafood grill and found a party of other cruisers who had just arrived. So we joined them and spent the evening swapping stories of cruising. The fresh tuna was the best. It was a festive and fitting end to our season.
The last jobs are in sight: a bit more summer canvas, water buckets through out the inside of the boat, and packing the car. We plan for a lazy day drive to Loreto. Pictures SOON.
A new sail! We decided to add an asymmetrical spinnaker to our sail wardrobe and priced new (made in Thailand) or used from the states. But we wanted a professional to do the measuring -- so called the local sailmaker. When we described what we were looking forward they surprised us by saying they had an asymmetrical on consignment at the shop: would we want to look it over? YES! While I did care if the sail fit -- I really wanted a colorful sail, one that would be as fun to see as to use. Upon inspection we found the sail to be a mix of yellows, oranges, reds, and purple. And it was only a few feet short. But for only 1/3 the price: SOLD! So the skipper is eager to get back this fall and give it a try.
Zeke! Last week, well in advance of our haul out we came down to the Singular Marina to do our paperwork, confirm the date, and generally check out the place. It is a bit out of town and and is entered via a narrow & shallow channel. While wandering around we got to talking to another cruiser who was hauling there; he introduced us to Zeke the Boat Guy. Turns out Zeke has been working on sailboats for years, learning the trade and fabulous English with the Moorings Charter Company. He left there (crappy pay) and began working on yachts and mega yachts. Zeke took a few years off and is now back on the scene and opening up a small work yard here in the Marina. We immediately enlisted his help for our yard work in October and he offered to help us when we hauled. Great. Then, on Saturday before our haul he showed up in Marina Cortez and offered to be aboard while we moved the boat--OK? YES!
Zeke and his wife showed up; and with Alan moved Magic and I drove the car. And he knew exactly where to take the boat and kept Alan safely in the little deep water there was! He interpreted through out the haul (knows the lift operators) and did all the trouble shooting. Did it make our day easier!! Zeke kept asking: what can I so, how can I help. Down came the tramps, the wind generator, the kayaks got moved, the awnings got up. And at the end, when we asked "how much" he said, just tip me. We will be working together in the fall so it is ok. Well, we tipped him! And leave today, confident of his ability to keep an eye on Magic all summer, especially if any hurricanes come blowing through.
A Saved Whale! We were hard at work on Sunday morning when the call came over the radio: "Attention the fleet, Attention the fleet. There is a whale stuck on the sand bar just outside the channel near buoy 8." There followed a group conversation among the cruisers of what to do and how to respond. Within an hour or two, all the authorities (Mexican Navy, Port officials, wildlife organizations) were on site and working to get the whale moved off; even on a dropping tide. Through out the day we would hear updates. I so did not want a whale to die on my last day in La Paz. The whales and sea life have touched us so much here; esp this year because I petted a baby whale. And by late afternoon came the news, the whale had been pulled off; backwards by 2 pangas working in tandem. WOW. It just lifted our spirits.
Last Dinner! We declared victory last night about 7pm, took showers, and headed downtown for a final meal. Having no plan we just walked into a seafood grill and found a party of other cruisers who had just arrived. So we joined them and spent the evening swapping stories of cruising. The fresh tuna was the best. It was a festive and fitting end to our season.
The last jobs are in sight: a bit more summer canvas, water buckets through out the inside of the boat, and packing the car. We plan for a lazy day drive to Loreto. Pictures SOON.
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Working Days
The season winds down for Magic and her crew. And that means cleaning, sorting, scrubbing, and packing up all the toys and the boat. We will haul on Monday and hopefully be on the road north Tuesday morning.
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Desert Meets the Sea
A few pictures from our trip between LaPaz and Loreto. Rugged mountains, tangled plants, sparkling waters, and blue skies. All the best from the magical intermix of desert and ocean.
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| That be a FOG Bank enroute to Isla Carmen |
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| LOTS of big bugs this season |
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| Cactus covered in vine with purple flowers |
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| Flower |
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| Flower |
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| Walking in the arroyo-looking for birds |
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| Structure from 1921; probably an attempt at cattle ranching for the workers in the salt evaporation ponds |
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| Nature is reclaiming the site |
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| Sunset from the back porch of Magic |
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| View to the Gigante Mountains from Isla Carmen |
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| A geo-cache on Isla Carmen |
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| Cactus in bloom |
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| Big, bad boy |
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| Ballandra anchorage -- good protection |
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| Desert Big Horn Sheep. From WAY FAR AWAY |
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
The Last of the Winds...for this Season
We enjoyed several delightful days at Ensenada Grande. We scrambled up an arroyo and kayaked the green waters. Alan spotted a zebra eel! We watched dolphins swim through the anchorage. And at night thrilled to the beautiful sunsets over the Gigante Mountains and Bay of LaPaz.
And then the forecast changed -- the night time south winds were going to have more of a western flavor and be quite strong. Ensenada Grande is open to the west and thus would become an untenable anchorage. Time to move -- but where should we go? There are few choices for west winds in this area -- so we choose La Paz.
The forecast was correct --honking strong winds that created quite a messy anchorage. And after only 1 dinghy ride through the slop we said: MARINA TIME.
We found a slip at Cortez Marina -- centrally located along the malecon (think easy walking distance to everywhere and then think night time noise!). After breakfast we had the hook up and within an hour we were tied up and taking real hot showers with gallons (er, litres) of hot water. Done with that conserving stuff for now!!
And now, as the sun sets and the evening winds start we watch the buffaloes stampede through the anchorage and we are grateful to be tied up and able to enjoy this delightful town.
We will be here for 2 weeks and spend time daily getting ready to haul Magic and leave for the summer. Our winter season is winding down. I will sort and get photos up soon.
And then the forecast changed -- the night time south winds were going to have more of a western flavor and be quite strong. Ensenada Grande is open to the west and thus would become an untenable anchorage. Time to move -- but where should we go? There are few choices for west winds in this area -- so we choose La Paz.
The forecast was correct --honking strong winds that created quite a messy anchorage. And after only 1 dinghy ride through the slop we said: MARINA TIME.
We found a slip at Cortez Marina -- centrally located along the malecon (think easy walking distance to everywhere and then think night time noise!). After breakfast we had the hook up and within an hour we were tied up and taking real hot showers with gallons (er, litres) of hot water. Done with that conserving stuff for now!!
And now, as the sun sets and the evening winds start we watch the buffaloes stampede through the anchorage and we are grateful to be tied up and able to enjoy this delightful town.
We will be here for 2 weeks and spend time daily getting ready to haul Magic and leave for the summer. Our winter season is winding down. I will sort and get photos up soon.
Friday, April 5, 2013
Ensenada Grande for a Week or So
We moved south to Ensenada Grande (on Isla Partida just north of La Paz) a few days ago. During our move from San Evaristo we had a bit of wind from every direction as we flew the spinnaker and then had wind on the nose. I guess it is typical for the Sea, but we never quite get the hang of it.
On our last day in San Evaristo we hiked up an arroyo and found fascinating rocks, including several geodes. Finally, I can honestly say, I found a geode!
We will probably sit here for a few more days; when we get into La Paz we will have to work putting the boat away so no rush on that front! The cupboard is bare -- only a sorry mango and a few fresh veggies remain. But there is fish and shrimp in the freezer, so the captain is happy.
On our last day in San Evaristo we hiked up an arroyo and found fascinating rocks, including several geodes. Finally, I can honestly say, I found a geode!
We will probably sit here for a few more days; when we get into La Paz we will have to work putting the boat away so no rush on that front! The cupboard is bare -- only a sorry mango and a few fresh veggies remain. But there is fish and shrimp in the freezer, so the captain is happy.
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
A Whale of a Day!
We continued our slow move south yesterday, leaving midmorning after watching dolphins play through out the anchorage. Our wind was every which way & didn't fill in until an hour before we arrived at San Evaristo.
Along the way -- and true to the maxim that you have to be watching -- we thrilled to spot 2 fin whales breaching. Over and over and over. They didn't seem overly large, so maybe 40 feet long; but even that is some hefty weight. Imagine the energy and coordination to lift the upper 2/3 thirds of their bodies completely out of the water; twist and fall with an enormous splash!! And then do it over and over and over. Then swim a bit and roll; then breach again and again and again. We just watched in awe and wonderment. From a safe distance I would note.
Then the whales dove and swam north, we sailed south. Still smiling about that snippet of life in the Sea today.
Along the way -- and true to the maxim that you have to be watching -- we thrilled to spot 2 fin whales breaching. Over and over and over. They didn't seem overly large, so maybe 40 feet long; but even that is some hefty weight. Imagine the energy and coordination to lift the upper 2/3 thirds of their bodies completely out of the water; twist and fall with an enormous splash!! And then do it over and over and over. Then swim a bit and roll; then breach again and again and again. We just watched in awe and wonderment. From a safe distance I would note.
Then the whales dove and swam north, we sailed south. Still smiling about that snippet of life in the Sea today.
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