(Main) Land HO!

We safely, and uneventfully, returned to Guaymas yesterday with a 20 hour passage from San Juanico.  We left about 7pm and for awhile even acted like a sail boat -- with sails drawing!  Eventually the wind died, the short wind driven chop leveled out, and we made like a motor boat.  The stars were incredible; watching sunset, stars rise, the moon rise, and eventually sun rise are key moments in an all night passage.

We were treated to dolphins on our bow as we approached Guaymas--we consider them to be our special guardian and totem from the sea. 

By 2pm we were tied up back in Marina Guaymas.  Suddenly emersed in land life we got our car from the storage yard in San Carlos (one dead battery and 1 piercing security alarm later) and found that life at 35mph is way faster than the 5mph of the last months.

It was "date night" and we treated ourselves to a local restaurant and icy margheritas. 

We were sound asleep before the drum and bugle corps were finished with afternoon practice.

Today we are working on putting Magic away for the summer.  Everything must be washed and dried.  Months of salt, dust, sea water, and spray take a toll on a boat.  We have a new engine mechanic here checking our those volvo pentas (that is another story!).  We have a haul date for May 5 and hope to be on the road north shortly after that -- with some adventures planned in Arizona before arriving in Marin.

Over the next days I hope to post pictures of our recent anchorages.

Caleta San Juanico

We arrived in San Juanico on Easter afternoon; we had waited for the forecast afternoon southerlies but alas found only a mild north east breeze and south east swell. We opted to anchor in the southern lobe of the bay for protection from the swell. We rolled a bit as the wind died and this morning moved to the northern lobe. WAY MUCH BETTER.

We had the hook down again by 9am (26'22.13N & 111.25.81W). Within an hour the kayaks were splashed and we paddled around to meet our neighbors on 3 other boats. Then off to shore for a hike around the beach and exploring the rocky pinnacles, beautiful beaches, and assorted geological formations. We are well protected from today's north east breeze; no bees or bugs so far; and fabulous views. This afternoon we spent reading (Alan is finishing up To Kill a Mockingbird and I started Dumb Witness by Agatha Christie). I also worked on some needlepoint. Soon it will be time for sundowners and our 1 game of backgammon at sunset. Pizza on the BBQ for dinner. Life is great.

We expect to stay here for several days awaiting a weather window to cross to Guaymas (on the mainland). Guaymas is less than a 100 nautical miles due north from here so we want a forecast with no north wind. Hoping for those southerlies again.

Isla Coronados

We departed Puerto Escondido about noon today -- waited for those forecast southerly, breezy conditions that well, never quite arrived. We have however, did motor sail and had the hook down in time for afternoon backgammon. Isla Coronados (26'06.84N and 111'17.06W) has a distinctive volcanic cone rising to a height of 928 feet. Tomorrow we plan to hike to the top! It is a very rugged island, few cactus in view; no lovely arroyos with ancient figs and stagnant pools.

This is Semanta Santa (Easter Week) in Mexico. Everyone has off the entire week; and just about everyone has staked out a beach front camp site. There were numerous pangas in the anchorage when we arrived with tow rings and other float toys. It is quiet now but we expect to have a boisterous neighborhood tomorrow. Lovely to see the Mexicans enjoy their natural heritage.

We plan to be here a day or two and then onward north till we cross to the mainland.

Keeping Magic in Tip Top Shape!

Our time in Puerto Escondido is drawing to a close; we plan to continue our journey north tomorrow with a stop at Isla Coronados.  We came into Puerto Escondido for a safe harbor from a series of "norther" winds.  While we did some hikes and hosted friends, a fair bit of time was spent working on Magic.  Boat projects.  Our list included:
a.  Changing the oil in both engines and finding a broken alternator belt to replace as well.   First time for Alan to do these jobs on Magic.  The gymnastics weren't too bad -- and it only took a few hours!
b.  Cleaning the bottom -- this time with the hooka for better results on the bottom of the keels and around the props.  A big job and one that is necessary to keep ahead of the growth as the water warms.
c.  Replaced the plastic in 4 hatches.  Out with the crazed old and in with the crystal clear hatches!
d.  Jerry canned water to refill our tanks.  The water in the bay is a bit suspect with so many other cruising boats around and not much tidal "flushing!"
e.  Laundry -- the washing machines and dryers sure are easier than the hand method!
f.  Cleaned the entire inside of the boat with vinegar and water.  Trying to stay ahead of that clammy, damp marine feeling.
g.  Filled our gasoline tanks (used for the dinghy outboard and generator).
h.  Replenished our books at the book exchange.  Alan even scored a copy of April Latitude 38!
i.  Scrubbed the starboard bilge -- it had become a floating mess of oil and gunk -- but now is sparkling clean and does not smell.
j.  Downloaded podcasts for the next few weeks.  We enjoy "wait, wait don't tell me" and "stuff you missed in history class."

Alan also landed his first paying, watermaker client!  He reinstalled a rebuilt, high pressure pump and gave some general advice.  Go Rover Go.

The final job before heading north was to provision.  Not so easy here.  Puerto Escondido is about 15 miles from Loreto and there is no easy means to get there (sure, you can hire a cab for $60 USD round trip or hitchhike on the main road!).  There is a small tienda about 1 mile from the marina complex -- and they get vegetables usually twice a week.  As we are without refrigeration, we are highly dependent on getting fresh vegetables and then trying to keep them from spoiling for a few days.  Earlier this week the woman in the tienda told me the vegetables would come on Thursday (not Friday) maybe around 1pm.  So I walked down the road about 2:30pm.  Too bad, the truck had not arrived -- but was very close, maybe in 1 more hour.  So back to the boat and then a second trip to the tienda about 4pm.  Success!!  Brocoli, cauliflower, carrots, squash, avocados, mangoes, apples, onions, tomatoes, cabbage, garlic, cucumbers, red peppers, tortillas, butter, cheese, eggs....and an ice cream bar!  This will be the last real provisioning until we cross back to Guaymas, so I think we have some canned dinners ahead!

We totally enjoyed our time here and plan on using Puerto Esconidido as our summer base for cruising in 2012 -- lots of nearby islands and anchorages, sea life a plenty, and many like minded cruisers.

Friends From A Far Visit Magic

We were delighted to welcome our friends Sharon and Ernie from San Francisco to spend a few days with us aboard Magic.  They were making a road trip down Baja to experience the kayaking, scuba, beach camping, and off road exploring that are the staples of the Baja peninsula.  We agreed to meet up in Loreto.

Loreto is a small, dusty town of about 10,000 and long believed to be the area of the oldest human settlement on the Baja peninsula.  For sure, Loreto is the site of the first permanent mission -- established in 1697 by Jesuit Juan Maria Salvatierra.  Today Loreto is also the home to the Parque Marino Nacioanl Bahia de Loreto with over 500,000 acres of protected islands and water.  It is truly a recreational mecca for fishing, scuba, and other water sports.

 Sharon and Ernie had a car, so we drove to Loreto for provisioning and lunch.  We also took the time to explore the Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto.  It is amazing to think that this was the first mission and there is a mission just down the road from my home in San Rafael!

We left the anchorage and made our way to Ballandra on Isla Carmen -- about 9.5 miles east of Loreto.  There was time for plenty of water activities -- too bad the fresh water rinse afterwards attracted every bee within miles!  We also did a very long hike across the island to view Bahia Salinas and the abandoned salt ponds.  The highlight of the hike was spotting several desert, bighorn sheep!  The peninsula populations are under pressure from development and haitat loss, so in 1995 the sheep were introduced on Isla Carmen.  Apparently they hope to re-introduce the sheep back on the peninsula.

Here are some pictures from our time together:

Sharon and Ernie waiting for fish tacos at McLulu's

Everyone's favorite:  dolphins on the bow!

Interior of the Mission

Sunrise leaving Ballandra

The pedestrian walk way in Loreto

Hike in Steinbeck's Canyon

We have been in Puerto Escondido (a bit south of Loreto on the Baja side) for a few days waiting out the latest "norther".  Towards the end of the week we will also connect up with Sharon and Ernie (friends from San Francisco) for a few days together on Magic.

Alan and I hiked in Steinbeck's Canyon on Sunday.  We left the boat in sunny and calm conditions; hiking the mile to Highway 1 and then another 1/2 mile to the canyon.   The canyon leads into the Sierra de la Giganta range -- a rough, rugged, and stark mountain range running along the Baja peninsula.  We had expected a harsh, dry environment.  Harsh:  yes; but we found stagnant pools high in the canyon and many varieties of plants and species of birds.  I understand that after rainy periods, the canyon is actually quite lush and the water can be used for swimming.  Um, it was a bit to green for me to even consider touching it with a toe!

Here are some pictures to enjoy!

The Sierra de la Giganta range

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rocks, Trees, Sky

Rugged country

A fun rock with a secret message!

Captain Wooly leads the way!

Pools of stagnant water -- months since the last rain

Enjoying the sun

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The end of the canyon for us--we would need longer & younger legs!

Pictures Along the Way

While we are underway, the blog updates are sent via radio.  Pictures are saved for internet access.

We arrived in Puerto Escondido yesterday; a rather windy few days is forecast and we opted to tuck in here rather than trust a new to us anchorage.  So here are some shots from our cruise north from LaPaz.

Kayaking in Ensenda Grande--a wonderful mix of colors and shapes.



Underway for San Evaristo.  Beautiful blue water and sky as we watch for sea life.



This is the small fishing village of Nopolo, clinging to the beach under the steep cliffs.





Goats are walking the hillsides near Aqua Verde. 



The north cove anchorage at Aqua Verde. 





Lobsters for the BBQ after a trade with the fisherman.



Caroline & Princess Leia near Aqua Verde. 



You Just Never Know

Bahia Aqua Verde.
One of the (mostly) positive aspects the of cruising lifestyle is: You Just Never Know. The weather changes; the winds die; the swell wraps around and rocks the boat; the neighborhood keeps changing (as boats come and go.) Today was one of those You Never Know days for us.

I woke early to hear the pelicans diving for breakfast. The sky was bright blue after a few days of partial cloud cover. Almost no wind to move us around the hook. I listened to the weather forecast (ok, I'm a bit possessed and I listened to 3 forecasts: 2 on the single side band radio and 1 on the local cruisers net.) This time they all agreed: the storm system moving into Northern California will be impacting our weather by Saturday afternoon. So, suddenly instead of exploring the east side of Isla Carmen for 3 days, we will leave in the morning for Puerto Escondido. With the "norther" and small craft warnings in the forecast, we opted for the safety of a known, well protected anchorage. We have had our butts kicked by a norther before. You never know.

After breakfast, we loaded up the dinghy and headed out to Roca Solataria that is the prominent, 115 foot high landmark for the entrance to Agua Verde. We wanted to snorkel around the Roca. The water was a bit cool still (we had on full wet suits) but the visibility was good--and the fish were totally amazing. Wow! You never know.

Then it was back to Magic to clean her bottom. We DID know that it was becoming a bit of a jungle and as the water warms; more growth can be expected. We each took a hull and scrubbed and cleaned away. We did come to realize in a personal way exactly how much more waterline a cat has! All that lovely interior space has a price -- lots of bottom to clean. We (sort of) didn't know.

After a delightful warm shower and a quick lunch, I walked over the hill to the village. We had ordered a kilo of tortillas on Tuesday for pick up on Thursday. And the little tienda had both cold Coke and Coke Light! The key word is cold as we have turned off the refrigeration on Magic. It was a huge battery drain and though it is a new compressor -- something is definitely wrong. So cold drinks are a special treat when the cabin temperature is mid 80s.

Back at the boat, we began the lazy afternoon of reading, needlepoint, computer card games and power napping. A panga fisherman came by the boat and wanted to trade lobsters for gasoline. Um, I think we can make a deal! How about 2 gallons of gas for 2 lobsters. You just never know. Lobster tails on the BBQ for dinner with pineapple and mango; fresh tortillas; and a small tomato cucumber salad.

The breeze has dropped off. The sunset alert is over. The sliver of moon is up over the mountains. A fabulous day of cruising!

Tomorrow we head north to Puerto Escondido where we will do a few boat projects and meet my friends Sharon and Ernie for a couple of days cruising on Magic.

Giving Thanks

Auga Verde, BCS, Mexico 4/5/11'

Many of you readers know some of the luck we had to get where we are today, cruising in these gorgeous waters. For the rest of you, it's time to share some thoughts about that process and truly give thanks to at least one person who made our dreams a reality.

Yes, the sale of of our home made the purchase of Magic possible. But everyday, we give thanks for our gift on Christmas '09, of two kayaks, paddles & PFDs. This gift has given us SO much pleasure and exercise. The gift was actually just a card in an envelope, offering us any two kayaks we wanted, and what we picked out has worked out so well. They are 12' sit on top style yaks that are self bailing and very stable. Just think, since we left LaPaz a week ago, we haven't taken our dinghy down from the davits or needed gas for our transportation across the water. We've kayaked to the market, made shore landings, watched fish from above along the rocky waters edge, and I've even trolled for fish (and caught two the past two days!).

Just today we paddled to the beach off our stern, carried the boats across a sand/rock separation with the Sea, and paddled about 2 miles to another beach and back around into the Auga Verde cove. Then I cleaned barnacles from along Magic's waterline, ferried a sander to another boat for their up-coming haul out needs, and then on a whim, raced off across the bay to paddle with a pod of about 60 dolphins! It was about 1/3 mile sprint to get to them, then I kayaked right amongst them for 30 minutes! I didn't have a bow wave for them to get a lift on, but two swam right along either side me for 200 feet, at about 6' under the surface! Of course they were busy feeding and doing their usual playing around motions, but I was ecstatic with joy! Eventually they swam out of the cove and I headed back to Magic. I was hungry for lunch and then realized I had been atop my kayak ("Princess Catherine") for 4 1/2 hours!

Soon it will be time for us to paddle to the village as we have an order in for fresh hot tortillas and the produce truck arrives today too. The beach landings are fun and we don't get very wet, and the ability to talk between us without raising our voices over the noise of an outboard is great. We can also slide right up on birds without them flying away, giving an awesome view of them.

After getting our boats, Caroline honored hers with the name "Princess Leia" and I was able to acknowledge my departed daughter. When the graphics were made for Magic, we also made lettering for the two kayaks and so they are proudly signed.

To the special gentleman who made all this a reality, many, many thanks...and may the force be with all of you.

A Day at Anchor

We safely arrived at Agua Verde yesterday and tucked into a small cove protected from southerly winds. We were the second boat in the cove but by nightfall 3 others had arrived. The water is a beautiful shade of green; rocky hillsides, a small white sand beach and ocean and jagged island peaks in the distance.

Today we spent a lazy cruising day at anchor. Enjoyed coffee watching the sun light up the hillsides. Listened to the morning cruisers net in Loreto (we checked in as a new arrival). Scrubbed a bit of hand laundry. Updated radio frequencies. Changed the clocks and watches in anticipation of daylight savings time. Kayaked around our small cove and rocky headland looking for fish. Beached the kayaks by the small fishing village and walked the dusty streets. Left our garbage (3 days worth) at a drop spot in the village. Checked out the tienda (not much for sale but coke and coke light--both cold). Ordered tortillas for tomorrow. Meet cruisers on a few other boats in the anchorage. Rigged up some more shade as the heat factor is building. Read. Stitched on a needlepoint canvas. Watched a herd of 50+ goats climb up the hillside. Trolled for fish from the kayak. Watched the sunset on the hillsides. Counted stars at night.

Probably we will do about the same for the next week or so. Every day a bit a time for the boat; a bit more time for fun.

We feel fortunate to be enjoying the cruising lifestyle here in Mexico.

Keepn Watch

3/31/11'
San Evaristo 24. 56.16N 110. 42.36W

You all know there are "rules of the road" out here on the water? Just like driving a car, but very few enforcers of law breakers. You do remember just a week ago we were boarded by the Mexican Marines (Navy) and passed with no problem their inspection. But if a boat captain caused an accident, there would be hell to pay! There are just three important rules though: 1) keep people inside; 2) keep water outside; 3) don't hit anything. Pretty simple eh?

To accomplish that last "rule", especially when underway, it means keeping eyes out for obstructions, or other vessels. Not that hard to do. But what we find is it's very important to keep a good look out, or you'll miss the sea life. Today, just an hour after leaving our anchorage (at the islands we've so enjoyed these past 6 weeks) it was 0730 and out of the corner of my eye I saw a splash. I alerted Caroline and then witnessed a shark about 7 to 8 feet long, come completely out of the water and do a graceful dive back into the sea! It was only about 100 yards just ahead of us, so we got a very close look at it. A rather slender guy, perhaps a "Blue Shark". That's why it's important to look around as often as you can.

About an hour before reaching this anchorage, I could see a ways away, lots of birds diving for fish. Gulls, Frigates & Pelicans, all competing for a late lunch. Since I had a trolling line out, I altered course to bear right through the middle of the feeding frenzy. As Magic exited the action area, Ziiinnnngggggg went the reel and I had some fish on the line! Can you imagine the mad dash to get to the pole, since we were both of the bows looking for fish ahead? Lots of line had run out and as I applied drag on the reel, there just as suddenly was no resistance. What ever it was broke the line in two and now has a decorative mouth piece to show their friends.

Really, the only down side to being outside all day is how much sunscreen we use up.

Captain Wooly