Waltzing in La Paz

Unique to LaPaz is the large, shallow bay that empties through a narrow channel creating ripping tides – anywhere from 3-6 knots depending on the phase of the moon.  Toss in the occasional “strong wind event” (that is always COLD and AT NIGHT) and you set up The Waltz. 

On a good day, boats are well behaved.  Everyone allows a bit extra anchoring distance between boats (so dancing boats have a lot of space); the wind versus tide impact is minimal; and one is lucky to be surrounded by boats with knowledgeable on-board skippers.

And on a bad day?  Well, that would be today.

We awoke to really strong winds (20+ knots), white caps in the anchorage, and a ripping flood tide.  Mariah, the boat normally ahead of us, had dragged through the night and was now on our stern.  Satori, typically astern of us (and on a fixed mooring) was 15 boat lengths closer to the Navy base.  We watched North Air bang first one boat and then another as it did a 180 maneuver.  Across the channel a few unattended boats were drifting along to their own tunes, some playing tag with the channel buoys.

And about Sea Star.  We can’t imagine how they got this far – 2 young men who are (in kindest terms) new to boating.   We listened and watched.  Last Friday, they tried to anchor next to us – we would have none of that because the space was too small and we dance a flamboyant waltz given our windage and minimal underbody.  They insisted on dropping their hook—but after watching for an hour they opted to re-anchor further from us.  Wise move.  Today, they too dragged.  But away from us – sort of.

In all these situations, there are many cruisers who jump in and help out in any conditions.  Our dinghy was secured & not easy to deploy; plus we had to watch the dancing neighborhood.  Anchors were borrowed; boats secured; owners were called to hustle aboard from warm, dry homes.  All is good but Sea Star was re-anchored way to close to us with woefully undersized equipment.

And, despite liking our spot (close into the dinghy dock for easier and drier rides ashore), we finally said, at 3 p m,  ENOUGH.  I like to WALTZ – I don’t like the tango, or the foxtrot, or the hip hop.  Too Much Drama! We picked up the hook and headed out to a far corner of the anchorage.  Where we can relax and just listen to the mayhem on the radio…and smile.

And yes, today we finally turned on the heater!