Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Idaho, Oregon, and Home

We left Missoula early on a Sunday morning--west towards Coeur d'Alene and the Idaho Panhandle.  Our goal was to see the lake and ride the miles of bike trails in the area.  We were not disappointed.  The tourist information office in Coeur d'Alene was not open on Sundays so we were left to scramble to find a campground other than an RV Park.  RV Parks seem to proliferate within a mile or two of highway exits with no regard for highway noise or tent campers.  But a bit of effort and we landed a spot at a National Forest Campground off the Lake.  It was a beautiful day:  warm blue skies, no wind, and a welcoming vibe.  We pitched our tents and headed out to see the Lake and find the Trail of the Coeur d'Alene.

The Trail of the Coeur d'Alene is a 70 mile long rails to trails paved bike path running from the border with Montana to Plummer, a small town at the southwest edge of the Lake.  We drove to Harrison (a small town on the eastern shore) and rode out and back to Plummer.  The next day we rode from Bull Run down to Harrison and back.  That stretch of 16+ miles one way has an elevation change of 10 feet.  It was so straight and so flat and so scenic, well, we all were wishing for a bend in the road!

Boat Garages on the Lake
On the Trail to Plummer

Rails to Trail conversion, including old bridge

The Coeur d'Alene Tribe oversees and maintains the trail.

Water Toys of every sort.

After two days in Idaho, we turned our thoughts towards the drive home.  There is a whole lot of nothing in Western Washington, Western Oregon, and parts of California.  And we drove through endless miles of that nothing.  At one point we had to turn around and retrace our steps to find an open gas station.  Yikes.  

We stayed one night in Bend, Oregon at friend Kathy's house.  Our former neighbors, Bob and Judy, were also there so we had a good visit.  Team Wulzen had voted to keep moving south rather than spend another day in the Bend area--so we left early and headed for Crater Lake.  We thought about spending the night at Crater Lake but turns out the boat trips on the Lake hadn't started for the season, the rim road was only partially open (that snow again!) and the campground at 6,400 feet had snow drifts.  When we arrived there was not a hint of wind on the Lake:  so blue and so still and so stunning.  

Wizard Island

Totally Calm Morning

So after a few scenic views and 1 visitor center:  the driving turned serious.  We listened to an episode or two of "Wait Wait Don't Tell Me" but mostly we focused on the miles going by.  Mt Lassen and Mt Shasta in snow:  WOW.   And suddenly there was San Anselmo & pizza delivery for dinner.

So...we were gone 3 weeks.  A bit shy of 4,000 miles in the car and maybe 130 miles on the bikes.  Only 4 nights in hotels (plus 1 night in Glacier hotel thanks Alisa & Joe!).  Here are the Team Wulzen highlights:

BRYAN:
1.  Walking on the Glacier at Columbia Icefields
2.  Having 2 people run towards you on the trail with a moose close behind.  They were a bit excited and announced "There is an angry moose coming this way!"
3.  Stanley Park in Vancouver and all the aspects of an accessible,  live-able world class city

ALAN:
1.  July 4th fireworks in Seattle with multiple, simultaneous shows all over the Puget Sound visible from the bluff.  It was incredible.
2.  Big mountains in every direction for days and days and days.  Wild and wonderful scenery.
3.  Bike ride along the A-1 in Banff National Park.  The A1 runs between Banff and Jasper and was chock a block full of scenery.

CAROLINE:
1.  Wildlife sightings:  moose, grizzly bears, elk, brown bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep
2.  Walking on the Glacier at the Icefields and driving the icefields parkway
3.  Glacier National Park was my favorite place:  it had it all.  Wildlife, scenery, hiking, and my sister.

It was a great vacation.  





Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Glacier National Park: A Few Great Glaciers Remain

Our next stop, and back in the US after 10 days, was Many Glacier Valley on the east side of Glacier National Park.  We were meeting Alisa and Joe here for several days of hiking and wildlife viewing and hanging out.  We crossed the border early and found the Park Cafe for coffee and breakfast.  We noted their motto:  Pie for Strength and vowed to return for another meal that could feature pie.

The campground had several empty sites; everyone seemed to be drying out their tents and gear from a real gully washer night of storms.  We got settled and headed out on the Grinnell Glacier Trail.  Per the ranger, there was snow only at the end of the trail!  We had a fabulous hike!


Plenty of Water in the Creeks

Snowy Lake Edge

Crossing the Creek on a swingy bridge:  1 person at a time and hold on!

Snowy Trail

Shrinking Grinnell Glacier

A Mini-Bench for Hikers

A Moose Headed down the trail and ambled up the meadow!  YEAH a MOOSE!

A side trail was full of waterfalls and grizzlies!

We returned from our hike and went to the hotel to meet up with Alisa and Joe:  only no Alisa and Joe.  They had left a message with the hotel:  due to severe hailstorm in Denver their flight (and many others) was cancelled; they were still in Denver and coming the next day.  Well, we were sorry for their misfortune and having our time together cut drastically, BUT, we could use the hotel room.  So we had dinner in the campground and then settled into the hotel with no worry about any rain or wind.

Alisa and Joe did arrive safely the next day after a very long drive from Missoula.  But we instantly hit the trails and opted to walk up towards Iceberg Lake.  Another great trail, and with better weather, I can confirm there are some incredible mountains, waterfalls, and glaciers at Glacier National Park.

Alisa and Joe are ready for the trail

Sisters on the Trail

Creek

Waterfall

We had PIE for dinner (just kidding) and left the next morning for the drive to West Glacier over the Going to the Sun Road.  What a road!  And what a lot of snow.  Actually the road had just opened, the lastest opening of the road since being built.  A truly great and spectacular drive and we had gorgeous weather.  Along the way we hiked to St Mary's and Virginia Falls.  

Ready for the Hike

River

Waterfall:  Top of St Mary's

Forest and Creek

Bryan and Joe playing hike and seek

Virginia Falls

Water, Rocks, and BLUE Sky

THUMBS UP across the bridge

The Going to the Sun Road; well, it is amazing.   At Logan Pass, there was still enough snow for skiers.

Peaks and Glaciers

Mountains, Snow, Trees

Not for the Weak at Heart

Let's Go Skiing -- NOT

Water Flowing East or West 

Washing off the cars

Lake MacDonald, western/lower/warmer side of Glacier

Can You Read the ENTIRE sign?

Team Wulzen

We all drove on down to Missoula for the night.  It was a very short but memorable snippet on our Rockies vacation.  We definitely were thrilled with our time in Many Glacier Valley/Glacier National Park:  so many hikes to experience, glaciers and lakes to explore, and lots of wildlife to observe.  Yet another place to say:  We'll be Back.








Monday, July 25, 2011

Banff

We headed south after 3 glorious days at Lake Louise and arrived in Banff under still gray skies.  We scored a lake front campsite at Two Jacks Campground at Lake Minnewanka.  Banff is a bustling city within the National Park--I was surprised at the complete range of services and year round community found within a National Park.  I guess it goes back to the original and founding purpose of the area:  a train runs through it -- all times day and night!

We hiked near Lake Minnewanka and explored the town of Banff; found the hot springs but opted to defer the healing waters.

Lake Front campsite

Largest Lake in Banff National Park:  Minnewanka

Hiking along a river

Big Horn Sheep watching over his world

Our second day was fabulous:  we rode bikes along the 1A, a 2 lane alternative to the busy highway that runs from Jasper to Banff.  There were occasional cars but plenty of quiet time just riding along.  And the sun was out (mostly) so we had fabulous views of mountains, snowy peaks, and green forests.  A few animals but no moose, not even at moose meadows.

Riding along the A1 

Sunny Lunch Spot

WOW -- there are mountains out there!
Where are those Moose?  Not at Moose Meadows!

We wandered through Banff and treated ourselves to a great dinner at Nourish, a vegetarian cafe.

Stanley Hotel in Banff


A River Running through Town

Sunny View
Vegetarian Nachos with 27 ingredients -- including strawberries and pickles.  Delicious!
It began raining before dawn and we made a mad dash to pack up our tents and head to Canmore for breakfast.  Then it was on to Calgary before turning south to Fort McLeod.  Calgary was in the throes of Stampede Fever -- we visited the downtown mall area and the Glenbow Museum for the all too familiar tale of white man versus indian.  We found a dumpy hotel in Fort McLeod -- it had a kitchenette which was good since DQ was about the only food option.  Anyway it was time for laundry, a thunderstorm, internet, and a bed!

Pedestrian Mall in Calgary.



Stampede Fever!
Our impressions of Canada were 100% positive.  Everyone was helpful; chatty.   People went out of their way to help us.  Clerks in grocery stores and at the museum found coupons and membership cards for us to enjoy cheaper prices.  The scenery was incredible; the animals plentiful.  The tourist information services were everywhere and uniformly gave helpful advice.  Bicycle friendly everywhere.  We will certainly go back.