A Little Magic Every Day: Lake Louise -- Clouds, Rain, Glaciers, and Grizzlies

After an early morning departure from Chilliwack and a long day's drive, we arrived in Golden, British Columbia, a bit west of Yoho National Park. Golden is a gritty, railroad town -- the Canadian Railroad has a major yard there and trains come and go at all hours: day and night. With a bit of wandering we found a campsite -- mostly level and mostly quiet. We set up tents and watched the clouds roll in along with a lightening display. We would not see such clear skies again until...well, for awhile. It poured rain and while Bryan's tent remained dry, Alan and I began the daily dance of trying to remain dry.

So after 1 night in Golden, we were up early and searched the whole town for coffee and pastry (not very successfully) and continued east. The campgrounds in the Canadian Rockies are on a first come, first serve basis (very limited reservations) so our strategy was always: get up and get there. We arrived at the campground near Lake Louise -- plenty of space! The tent campgrounds in the Parks were all lovely: fairly large sites, clean facilities, wood bins (for firewood if you paid for a campfire permit), and cooking shelters. These shelters were a favorite of our trip.

Upon arrival at the campground, I had laughingly asked for a site "near a shelter" -- meaning a place to sit out the rain threatening from the clouds and plastered all over the forecast. "Sure" the Park host replied. We did not know that the campgrounds all feature several large, roofed shelters with wood burning stoves and tables and benches. They are communal cooking areas and when the weather is crappy -- they are bustling with activity.

Evening 1 we met a group of 8 women (professors and other professional staff) from UC Davis cycling from Banff to Jasper! They laughed when Bryan arrived in his UC Davis hat and quickly welcomed us to their group with wine and food! Also in the shelter were a Dutch man and his wife living in Canada and 2 families from Holland visiting them on vacation. He was off to the far north of Canada! He kept that wood burning stove HOT!

Evening 2 in the shelter we met a young German couple who had given up their jobs and bought a car in Seattle. They were on a year long trip from Seattle to Tierra del Fuego. We have invited them to visit us in San Francisco and expect them in early August. There are so many fascinating people "out there."

Anyway, after we were settled in the camp ground we headed off to see Lake Louise. We checked out the Lake and then hiked up to Lake Agnes for a pot of coffee at the tea house. We had snow flurries along the way. It was still lovely, but it takes a bit of faith that the fabulous mountains are there just behind the clouds.

Ready for Adventure!

Lake Louise

Mirror Lake, enroute to Lake Agnes

The TeaHouse: serves coffee and hot chocolate too.

We also saw our first wildlife: grizzly bears! The tent campground at Lake Louise is surrounded by an electric fence. Seems a couple of years ago, the bears nibbled on a few campers, so the fence was installed. You have to trust it really works! We were driving back from our afternoon hike and there was a mommy grizzly and 2 cubs. Close enough for me.

Grizzly Bear!

Upon advice of the very helpful Parks Canada Rangers, we opted to do the Johnston Canyon hike all the way to the Inkpots the next day. Walking through the Canyon and the forest, we did not notice the gray skies so much. The trail led to several waterfalls: and they were busting full of water at every turn. The trail was engineered over the river/creek and clung to the walls. It was a great scenic day.

High Above the rushing River

Stay on the Trail!

Summer Clothing for the Canadian Rockies

Cliff Walls and a Water Fall

A waterfall

Another Waterfall

The Inkpots are COLD bubbling pools

Almost time for lunch

Lovely Spot

Wildlife along the Road

Walk on a glacier -- that was something we really wanted to do during our trip to the Canadian Rockies. The Columbia Ice Fields are about half way between Lake Louise and Jasper and the road is reported to be one of the most beautiful drives anywhere. We really wanted a sunny day for the drive and glacier walk; but we were happy to settle for "not totally socked in and gray AND not frigid cold with nasty wind." We left early and fortified ourselves with coffee and pastry in Lake Louise and began the drive north. Our goal was to beat the tour buses and give ourselves flexibility if the the weather was dicey.

We were in luck! Upon arrival at the Ice Fields, there was a wee hint of blue in the sky; the winds were calm; and the snow coaches had space available. In no time we were Glacier Walking!!

The Columbia IceFields -- the top of the continent: waters flows north, east, and west!

We all drank glacier waters -- supposedly it takes 10 years off your life

Bryan drank the water, but doesn't want to be 9 again!

Alan's acrobatic style!

The COLD family from California

Our Snowcoach

Check out that BLUE sky!

It was a great experience; well worth the drive! On the way back to Lake Louise, more wildlife, more river canyons, more lakes. Truly a wild and exquisitely beautiful country -- miles and miles of forests, mountains, open space.