A Little Magic Every Day: DAY 4: FLOATING OVER THE FOG

Day 4: Monterey to Big Sur. 47 miles

The sun was shining as we awoke for day 4. We had some housekeeping chores to finish (code for trip to a laundry mat) so headed towards Pacific Grove. We opted to leave the standard Pacific Coast route and ride the 17 Mile Drive through Carmel. The Drive is free for cyclists and it was fun to bypass all the cars waiting to pay. We rode along looking at the estate homes, the crashing surf, and the golf courses. We went past Pebble Beach and saw the turnoff for "Stillwater Cove" -- a place we anchored years ago and believe me those waters were not still that night. Gas at Pebble Beach was $5.80 a gallon and there were cars lined up for the pump.

As the miles rolled past, we went around Carmel and past the Carmel Mission. We had a picnic lunch at Carmel River Beach State Park. It felt like the heart of the ride was upon us. No more services; long stretches of climbing; isolated communities. It was past the point of turning back. Were we up for the challenge?

Up, Down, Curve Left, Curve Right. Bridges from the 30s. Roadwork. Up, Down, Curve Left, Curve Right. More roadwork.

Alan remembers Hurricane Gulch from his previous ride down the coast (um, 48 years ago). The winds blew so strongly he was pushed sideways across the bridge and into ongoing traffic despite all out pedaling. But there was nothing like that this time.

There were many cars; many motorcyclists, many RVs. Those rental RV drivers seem to avoid crossing the double yellow line and I'm not sure they realize just how wide they are. But most drivers were very aware of us and I never felt the cars were too close or too threatening.

And then I fell. We were approaching a traffic control zone; a stretch of just one lane. We were going slow as we approached the stopping point; it was slightly uphill. And I could not get my foot out of my pedal. PANIC. Nowhere to go but over -- and over I went onto the side of the road. The bike landed on top of me; blood squirted from my knee and mostly I was embarrassed and shocked. I realized I was not really badly hurt -- a few cuts on my knee and a gorgeous purple blue bruise spreading across my leg. But, I could get up and walk and push the bike...and get back in that saddle and ride. We were still miles from Big Sur. Best get on with doing it!

I had a chocolate chip cookie on the top of the hill. That helped cure the road rash blues.

We rode above the fog in many sections. Beautiful hills in clear, crisp blue skies. And the Pacific Coast hidden in gray fog.

The campground at Big Sur is right in the redwoods along the Big Sur River. It was lovely. We cleaned up; wandered along the river. And luck was with us as we found 2 cycling jerseys and 1 pair of shorts in the laundry room! An assisted ride, the California Coastal Classic, raises money for the National Arthritis Foundation had passed through the day before and someone had left these items behind. Works for me!!

We camped our entire trip: Hiker Biker sites are available in campgrounds run by State of California (Half Moon Bay, New Brighton Beach near Santa Cruz, Big Sur and Hearst San Simeon Beach State Park); the City of Monterey at Veteran's Memorial Park; and the National Forest Service (Plaskett Creek). The sites are available without reservation and no one is "turned away." They charge per person ($5-7 per person) rather than the going rate of $35 per site which must be reserved in advance. We planned our route based on how far we could ride and where we would find campgrounds. They were clean, comfortable, accessible, and affordable. All had showers except Plaskett Creek. Our favorite campground: Big Sur. Our least favorite: San Simeon -- where they put the bikers right by the road and the campground host is a grumpy, vet with a massive chip on his shoulder.