Todos Santos

One more vacation day in Mexico -- how to spend the time together?

How about a day at the beach?  With crashing waves?  Blue skies?  Endless sand?  So...throw a few towels and the sunscreen in the car and head south across the Baja peninsula to the oasis, gringo haven town of Todos Santos (best known for the Hotel California)!

We wandered the streets and had a shrimp taco or two.  Then headed west on one of several dusty, bumpy roads.  When the road dead ended, we walked over the dune.  And there was the Pacific Ocean--endless miles of surf and sand.   Then someone pointed out the whale spouts and pretty soon we all could see rolling backs, flukes, and full body breaching.  WOW!  WHALES!  We were amazed at the number of these massive mammals making the slow migration south.

Then back to LaPaz for a last seafood dinner.  Bryan headed north on Saturday while Alan and I are finishing up the list before heading to the La Paz anchorage on January 2.

Welcome to Todos Santos

Sleepy Dogs in the Street of a Sleepy Town

But I want to park on the sidewalk!

Welcome to the Beach!

Watching the surf, looking for whales

El Triunfo

Time for a road trip up into the hills south east of La Paz!  Our destination was El Triunfo, an historic mining town -- the site for a prosperous, cultured village of 10,000 at the turn of the century and now a jumble of deteriorating buildings, abandoned equipment, and an ornate Cathedral dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe.

El Triunfo is also home to a few hundred Mexicans and one self taught, French baker.  He has opened a cafe and built stone ovens to produce incredible pizzas and French Country bread.  We wandered the ruins and speculated about old mining days, walked through the church and town, and then treated ourselves to a fabulous meal.  A great day!

Bricks, Stones, Shapes, Buildings...A Walk Through the Ruins

A Shot of Town:  2 Towers and the Cathedral (far left)

Ruins

All Sorts of Shapes & Materials Used

Back View of Cathedral.  

Wander & Wonder

A Stretch of Wall that included Metal Items for 50-60 feet at the base.  Why?

Altar:  The Virgin of Guadalupe, a Creche scene, Santa Banners and twinkle lights.

Services for the Virgin of Guadalupe started at 5 am every day during the Holiday Season.  

Quirky Road Sign

Not so quirky road sign!

The Exterior is Beautifully Finished -- but look close.
Inside is an overgrown lot, rusting car top, and a view of the ruins!

Home Altar in the Craft Store 

Feliz Navidad

Twas the night before Christmas....and we all went to an appetizer/dessert get together at Club Cruceros, the local cruising club here in La Paz.  We ate plenty of desserts and then sang some Christmas carols (a local church had an open air service in a nearby parking lot) and then back to Magic for the traditional dinner of tamales.  No, I did not make the tamales:  way too much work for me!

We awoke to find that Santa had indeed found Magic here in Mexico and rather than filling our stockings (hung on the bulkhead with fishing line and care) he left a traditional pinata, in the Christmas colors of red and green, in the cockpit!  SURPRISE!  It seemed so festive  we opted to just dump out the goodies and leave the pinata to decorate the cockpit.

Lots of wonderful goodies in the pinata and under our tree!  Thanks Santa!

Later we went to a friend's boat for turkey dinner with all the trimmings.  Bryan had the turkey & Al and I had the trimmings!  And then a fabulous sunset.

Our pinata and Christmas Tree.  Feliz Navidad!

New Shirts!  A California Theme Cycling Jersey for Caroline
A hand painted Turtle T-shirt in memory of Bryan's Christmas Turtle Release 10 years ago!

Turkey and Trimmings on the Dock.  

Sunset Alert

The Life of La Paz, The Life of Pi

We are all "on vacation" now -- lazy days, local exploring, and gearing up for the holidays.

We went to the Plastismo Theater here in LaPaz to see Life of Pi.  This theater is exquisite:  30 seats, leather recliners, internal bass speakers in the recliners, waiter service!   Alan and Bryan did manage to reserve our seats for the Life of Pi -- English with Spanish subtitles.  When you try and do something (buy tickets) in Spanish...well, anything can happen.  It happened GREAT!

Saturday we attempted a road trip to El Triunfo, a deserted mining town south of La Paz.  However, 20 miles out of town we discovered that the road was closed (horrible accident on the twisting, winding route over the mountains).  So back to La Paz to the local museum and then out for an early dinner at a local seafood restaurant, Mariscos El Toro Guero.  I am not sure how a seafood restaurant is named the Blond Bull but the place is always packed with Mexicans; so we gave it a try.   Wonderful food and a mariachi band to boot.

We decorated for Christmas.  Hope Santa can figure out to come down the mast as we don't have a chimney anymore.

Sort of Like a Home Theater??

Getting the Propane Tank Refilled on our way out of town.

Interesting displays, mostly in Spanish.  An incentive to study more!

Seafood and Mariachi Music...a great way to spend the afternoon.

The Blond Bull -- makes me think of seafood.  You?

A Peek in the Kitchen

Santa Claus is Coming to La Paz!

Swimming with the Whale Sharks!

Whale Sharks (Tiburon Ballenas) are the gentle giants of the sea:  the largest known species of fish.  From early winter through late spring, these filter feeders live in the shallow waters near LaPaz.  Once before we had tried to find, view, and SWIM with the whale sharks:  but no luck that time.

This year -- determined to see them up close and personal -- we opted for the professional panga tour guide (plus we did it during peak whale shark watching season).  We waited for a calm morning, and then promptly at 8am we headed out around the Magote (sand spit near LaPaz) and began the hunt for those elusive giants.

We opted that leaving earlier than most tour groups would give us the best conditions (calm seas) even if we had to find them (small disturbances on the water -- not quite as much as a dolphin fin).  At first we drove back and forth looking & looking.  Flat calm seas.  Then we noticed another panga tour boat was pretty stationery.  Heading in that direction, I spotted the tale action!  YEAH!  WHALE SHARKS!

In almost no time, we were in the water, snorkeling with these behemoths watching them filter feed.  At times we all felt the need to snorkel backwards to stay out of the way.  But no problem.   It was an incredible experience.  Awe inspiring.

SOLD!  A Panga Tour to View the Whale Sharks.

Our Panga

Hello.  I'm your friendly Whale Shark.

Good Shot of Open Mouth -- Filter Feeding

WOW!

Whale Shark

Bryan watching a Whale Shark (see bump ahead on surface of water) and READY to snorkel backwards!  

YEAH!  We swam with the Whale Sharks!

Signs of the Holiday Season

It must be the Christmas:  Bryan arrived safely from the cold, wet north to share the holidays with us in LaPaz.  First stop:  Taco Fish for a quick bite to eat!  What is not to love about fresh shrimp and fish tacos!   A few trips around town today.  More activities on tap!

What a lunch:  7 tacos + toppings and 3 drinks for $12.50US.   We were stuffed!

One of the light displays near the marina

The burro has arrived:  mail, boat bits, coffee filters, and a few gifts.  

Time for a trip to the dentist.
We agreed:  the most modern equipment we have EVER seen in an office and welcoming, professional staff.  

Seasonal Weather Returns to LaPaz

We are nothing if not weather wimps.  The last few days have been gray, windy, cold, and rainy!  Yikes!  But today the sun re-emerged so I had to take a sunset walk from the marina along the malecon and down towards town.  Here are a few shots:

Take OFF!

This HUGE trawler sank to the fly deck months ago; was bought on Ebay and several million later....

Looking out to Sea?  Recognize Him?

Walking back to the marina

Mujer en Nautilus 

Pangero at Sunset

New Decorating Idea

Marking a Mega Pot Hole -- one of zillions in town after a summer of rains!

Creche on the front porch

A Christmas Party (Posada) Treat

Watching for Supper