We hope that everyone has enjoyed a special treat for Easter Sunday. Maybe purple peeps for dessert?
Aboard Magic, we slowly sailed (mostly) about 15 miles south to Timbabiche, at the north end of Bahia San Carlos. One reason we picked this spot: Manuel the resident fisherman catches lobsters upon request for yachties. We had no sooner rounded the point when we could see his pick up truck moving down the beach; Manuel was in his panga by the time the hook was set. And while we kayaked in a nearby lagoon and watched the birds he was out harvesting our dinner. Our version of purple peeps!
We will continue our south trek tomorrow as favorable winds are forecast!
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Thursday, March 28, 2013
You Have to be Watching!
We spent a delightful time in Puerto Ballandra. Hiking, fishing, kayaking -- just enjoying everything the Sea can offer EXCEPT snorkeling as the water is still too cold for me.
We found our anchor yesterday afternoon and began our slow move south to LaPaz. Our trip was a bit of everything -- no wind to 25 knots (on the nose of course). But I faithfully sat on deck with my binocs and scanned the water. You won't see the sea life if you aren't watching.
I could hear Alan fiddling with something down bellow. So I called out "Alan" and then suddenly a whale blew right off our port stern. ALAN, ALAN, ALAN I called out! It's a whale!!
The massive beast was moving slowly on a reciprocal course off our port side. The whale slowly turned and we could see his flank. He blew a few times and then dove.
Based on all the signs -- we identified it as a Blue Whale -- one of the largest mammals on earth.
It was a treat! I'm glad I was watching.
We found our anchor yesterday afternoon and began our slow move south to LaPaz. Our trip was a bit of everything -- no wind to 25 knots (on the nose of course). But I faithfully sat on deck with my binocs and scanned the water. You won't see the sea life if you aren't watching.
I could hear Alan fiddling with something down bellow. So I called out "Alan" and then suddenly a whale blew right off our port stern. ALAN, ALAN, ALAN I called out! It's a whale!!
The massive beast was moving slowly on a reciprocal course off our port side. The whale slowly turned and we could see his flank. He blew a few times and then dove.
Based on all the signs -- we identified it as a Blue Whale -- one of the largest mammals on earth.
It was a treat! I'm glad I was watching.
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Isla Carmen
We had quite an adventure making our way from Isla Coronados to Isla Carmen.
We left the anchorage and had all the gear set up to fly our spinnaker; yup it looked like a nice down wind run to Puerto Ballandra (about 10 miles due east of Loreto). We came through the slot, got the island into view.
FIRST note: we figured out we had been teased by wind wrapping around Coronados and our anchorage was UP WIND. We don't do UP WIND for fun.
SECOND note: there was a huge fog bank sitting on the north side of Isla Carmen. Fog? In the Sea of Cortez?
Well, we put the chute away and got ourselves sailing east. But the fog kept moving south; soon completely covering the island. Not good. We were still several miles off the coast and had no idea if the fog was a thin ribbon; a thick band. Was the anchorage socked in? It is not our practice to close to land at night or in the fog...same problem of no visibility. Suddenly fog was all around us! Thick wet cold fog. We decided the prudent (er, only) thing was to turn around--and we did. Much to my dismay as I really wanted to be in Balandra for my birthday. Tough girl.
About 20 minutes later I peeked out of the cabin and there was Carmen on our stern, now in bright sun; no sign of fog. Turn this boat around again! So, I am in Balandra for my birthday.
We hiked the arroyo this morning. Tucked way up a side gully we found an abandoned stone building and water trough with a 1921 engraved marker. We assume it was somehow related to the salt evaporation pond operation on the other side of the island; maybe they were cattle ranching for the workers?
Lots of flowers, birds, plants, and lizards. No sign of the big horned sheep.
Tomorrow -- we are actually going to wet the line and try and catch some fish, trolling from the dinghy.
We left the anchorage and had all the gear set up to fly our spinnaker; yup it looked like a nice down wind run to Puerto Ballandra (about 10 miles due east of Loreto). We came through the slot, got the island into view.
FIRST note: we figured out we had been teased by wind wrapping around Coronados and our anchorage was UP WIND. We don't do UP WIND for fun.
SECOND note: there was a huge fog bank sitting on the north side of Isla Carmen. Fog? In the Sea of Cortez?
Well, we put the chute away and got ourselves sailing east. But the fog kept moving south; soon completely covering the island. Not good. We were still several miles off the coast and had no idea if the fog was a thin ribbon; a thick band. Was the anchorage socked in? It is not our practice to close to land at night or in the fog...same problem of no visibility. Suddenly fog was all around us! Thick wet cold fog. We decided the prudent (er, only) thing was to turn around--and we did. Much to my dismay as I really wanted to be in Balandra for my birthday. Tough girl.
About 20 minutes later I peeked out of the cabin and there was Carmen on our stern, now in bright sun; no sign of fog. Turn this boat around again! So, I am in Balandra for my birthday.
We hiked the arroyo this morning. Tucked way up a side gully we found an abandoned stone building and water trough with a 1921 engraved marker. We assume it was somehow related to the salt evaporation pond operation on the other side of the island; maybe they were cattle ranching for the workers?
Lots of flowers, birds, plants, and lizards. No sign of the big horned sheep.
Tomorrow -- we are actually going to wet the line and try and catch some fish, trolling from the dinghy.
Monday, March 18, 2013
Isla Coronados
We've just spent several absolutely delightful days at Isla Coronados--a volcanic island a bit north nest of Loreto. It is the perfect Sea of Cortez island: rocks, rocks, rocks; a small white sandy beach; green - blue water that is gin clear; a few cactus and a few birds. We have spent our time kayaking, birding, hiking, and relishing the warm, sunny weather.
We are off to Isla Carmen in a bit; maybe the wind will fill in from the north and we could actually put up the sails -- even the spinnaker???!!!! Make like a sail boat???
Our favorite spot on Carmen is Puerto Ballandra, a well protected cove on Carmen's west side due east of Loreto. Great hiking and kayaking--still a bit cold for getting in the water. We hope there are no bees!!!
We are off to Isla Carmen in a bit; maybe the wind will fill in from the north and we could actually put up the sails -- even the spinnaker???!!!! Make like a sail boat???
Our favorite spot on Carmen is Puerto Ballandra, a well protected cove on Carmen's west side due east of Loreto. Great hiking and kayaking--still a bit cold for getting in the water. We hope there are no bees!!!
Thursday, March 14, 2013
We Go On Vacation!
Yup, I know. We are on vacation every day -- nothing but fun in the sun in Mexico. NOT!
We left Magic at anchor in Puerto Escondido under the watchful eye of SeaDream during a spell of calm weather; rented a car; and headed out for a vacation day. Our goal was Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos, one of several gray whale breeding lagoons on the Pacific side. We had no plans other than see the whales!!
Gray whales are well known for the 12,000 mile round trip between their southern breeding grounds in Baja and their northern feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. This is one of the longest migrations of any known mammal. Females calve in the shallow Pacific Baja Lagoons in January/February/March and by early April begin the northward migration. Adults are gray and mottled; often covered in barnacles and showing scars from the teeth of killer whales. Adults may weigh from 15-35 tons and are 40-46 feet in length. Calves are typically 15 feet long and only a half ton. They spend several months growing and preparing for the migration north.
It was only about 90 minutes from P. Escsondido to Cuidad Constitution (up and over the Gigantes Mountains) where we ran a few errands--diesel engine oil & a grocery store run. Then over to the Pacific side and the small, sleepy town of Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos.
Arriving about 6pm we went out to the piers to inquire about tours for early the next morning. It was pretty shut down; I wondered how we would find at least 4 others to share the panga with in this sleepy town. We were walking back to the car and a young man approached us and asked if we were hungry. Yes, dinner was definitely part of our plan but the places were all closed. No, I will call the cook and she will come make what ever you want. A few minutes later the table was set; chairs appeared; the cook walked in and we gave our order. The sun was setting -- so off someone went to find a generator to give us a light. The food was delicious and when the generator ran dry -- well, they found a candle and told us it was "very romantic."
Eventually we left and headed into the town to the only hotel--The Happy Shrimp Hotel. The sign said ABIERTO -- and indeed they were open. We got a room and asked for hot water. Sure -- wait 30 minutes and you will have hot water. We drove the town to find some milk for breakfast (we had brought our cereal) and while we were in the tienda the whole town lost power. Out come the flashlights -- but soon there was power again.
We took HOT SHOWERS. Oh my, was that a treat.
Early in the morning we could hear a few other guests in the front lobby area. Alan investigated a bit and found a delightful group who had arrived during the night to -- you guessed it -- see the whales. One of their group has lived part time in the Baja for 30 years so had made some prior arrangements for a 3 hour tour -- and invited us to join. WOW. (I would say that when we returned to the docks this morning-- the place was hopping with buses, tourists, and all sorts of services.)
I can not tell you how it felt to be on this tour. We left the dock and sped out through the lagoon. Within a few minutes we saw our first whale. And soon our second whale; soon a baby. Spouts abounding.
The whales here are known as The Friendly Ones. Many mother whales approach the pangas and let their babies be petted. They are so aware of the surroundings. At times they knock the panga (we did not have any that lifted or scratched on our hull.) The pangeros were always attentive to the mother and baby -- where was the HUGE body and POWERFUL tail.
I'm known as a squealler and I squealled. A couple of times. I petted a whale, I got a whale spouting on me, I watched the moms lift the babies on their backs, I watched the tails sway under water, I watched whales just roll and swim. Over and over and over. I am still amazed at the memories. I was almost in tears it felt so incredibly powerful to connect to these whales in such a personal and intimate manner. I gave thanks that these whales would share so much with us and seek us out to make connection.
3 hours later -- we were back at the dock and then driving to our boat. WOW. What a vacation.
So, I over did the photos. Try and realize that these photos are taken with a point and shoot camera -- not over a great distance -- these whales were right there.
We left Magic at anchor in Puerto Escondido under the watchful eye of SeaDream during a spell of calm weather; rented a car; and headed out for a vacation day. Our goal was Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos, one of several gray whale breeding lagoons on the Pacific side. We had no plans other than see the whales!!
Gray whales are well known for the 12,000 mile round trip between their southern breeding grounds in Baja and their northern feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. This is one of the longest migrations of any known mammal. Females calve in the shallow Pacific Baja Lagoons in January/February/March and by early April begin the northward migration. Adults are gray and mottled; often covered in barnacles and showing scars from the teeth of killer whales. Adults may weigh from 15-35 tons and are 40-46 feet in length. Calves are typically 15 feet long and only a half ton. They spend several months growing and preparing for the migration north.
It was only about 90 minutes from P. Escsondido to Cuidad Constitution (up and over the Gigantes Mountains) where we ran a few errands--diesel engine oil & a grocery store run. Then over to the Pacific side and the small, sleepy town of Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos.
Arriving about 6pm we went out to the piers to inquire about tours for early the next morning. It was pretty shut down; I wondered how we would find at least 4 others to share the panga with in this sleepy town. We were walking back to the car and a young man approached us and asked if we were hungry. Yes, dinner was definitely part of our plan but the places were all closed. No, I will call the cook and she will come make what ever you want. A few minutes later the table was set; chairs appeared; the cook walked in and we gave our order. The sun was setting -- so off someone went to find a generator to give us a light. The food was delicious and when the generator ran dry -- well, they found a candle and told us it was "very romantic."
Eventually we left and headed into the town to the only hotel--The Happy Shrimp Hotel. The sign said ABIERTO -- and indeed they were open. We got a room and asked for hot water. Sure -- wait 30 minutes and you will have hot water. We drove the town to find some milk for breakfast (we had brought our cereal) and while we were in the tienda the whole town lost power. Out come the flashlights -- but soon there was power again.
We took HOT SHOWERS. Oh my, was that a treat.
Early in the morning we could hear a few other guests in the front lobby area. Alan investigated a bit and found a delightful group who had arrived during the night to -- you guessed it -- see the whales. One of their group has lived part time in the Baja for 30 years so had made some prior arrangements for a 3 hour tour -- and invited us to join. WOW. (I would say that when we returned to the docks this morning-- the place was hopping with buses, tourists, and all sorts of services.)
I can not tell you how it felt to be on this tour. We left the dock and sped out through the lagoon. Within a few minutes we saw our first whale. And soon our second whale; soon a baby. Spouts abounding.
The whales here are known as The Friendly Ones. Many mother whales approach the pangas and let their babies be petted. They are so aware of the surroundings. At times they knock the panga (we did not have any that lifted or scratched on our hull.) The pangeros were always attentive to the mother and baby -- where was the HUGE body and POWERFUL tail.
I'm known as a squealler and I squealled. A couple of times. I petted a whale, I got a whale spouting on me, I watched the moms lift the babies on their backs, I watched the tails sway under water, I watched whales just roll and swim. Over and over and over. I am still amazed at the memories. I was almost in tears it felt so incredibly powerful to connect to these whales in such a personal and intimate manner. I gave thanks that these whales would share so much with us and seek us out to make connection.
3 hours later -- we were back at the dock and then driving to our boat. WOW. What a vacation.
So, I over did the photos. Try and realize that these photos are taken with a point and shoot camera -- not over a great distance -- these whales were right there.
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| Tiara brings the car to the marina! Hertz has 3 cars in Loreto and Tiara works 7 days a week to keep tourists happy! |
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| Let's Have Dinner |
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| Deserted View of the Lagoon |
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| Lights for the dinner customers |
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| The Happy Shrimp Motel -- a great place for a hot shower! |
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| Arranging our 3 hour tour |
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| Lots of pangas -- lots of tourists want to see the whales |
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| Helping us get onto the pangas |
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| Hector, our pangero, and tour mates. It was sunny, no wind, and perfect for watching sea life. |
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| The Whale approaches our stopped panga. |
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| Mom and Baby |
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| WOW |
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| Splashing in the water helps attract the whales |
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| That's my hat |
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| Grays have a distinctive heart shaped blow -- seeing the 2 holes explains why. |
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| That be a tale! |
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| Barnacle Mom |
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| I scratched this baby! |
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| Whale |
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| Mummmm, would that be a squeal? |
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| Right by the boat |
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| Mom and Baby |
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| Whale |
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| There she is! |
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| Our tour group! |
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| Celebrate the Gray Whales!! |
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| A town to remember!! |
Monday, March 11, 2013
Steinbeck's Canyon
One of the perennial draws of Puerto Escondido is the chance to explore Steinbeck's Canyon. The Canyon is a deep cut in the Gigante Mountains a mile or so up the road from the marina. In years past we explored the canyon and were mesmerized by the plant life, birds, and occasional water pools. So off we set today, eager to re-aquaint ourselves with this magical niche.
YIKES!!!
OK, it has been two years since our last visit and OK, there have been a few hurricanes and OK, last year was torrential downpour after torrential downpour.
We found the canyon totally changed: rocks have scoured and now fill the canyon floor. Nary a plant in sight. Where once we scrambled and bushwhacked through shrubs and bushes, we found piles of rocks. No plants. No birds. Some water. We estimate the flood waters at well over our heads, based on the piles of debris stuck in tree branches.
We walked up the canyon till the boulders blocked our path and while Alan climbed the rope / stainless ladder, the canyon above did not change much. So, we picniced in the shade, then back to the marina.
YIKES!!!
OK, it has been two years since our last visit and OK, there have been a few hurricanes and OK, last year was torrential downpour after torrential downpour.
We found the canyon totally changed: rocks have scoured and now fill the canyon floor. Nary a plant in sight. Where once we scrambled and bushwhacked through shrubs and bushes, we found piles of rocks. No plants. No birds. Some water. We estimate the flood waters at well over our heads, based on the piles of debris stuck in tree branches.
We walked up the canyon till the boulders blocked our path and while Alan climbed the rope / stainless ladder, the canyon above did not change much. So, we picniced in the shade, then back to the marina.
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| Walking to the Canyon slot |
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| Waking up the rattlesnake on the trail |
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| Crossing the water pools |
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| Rocks! No Plants, No Birds |
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| Out of the canyon, a hummingbird |
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Photo Time!
With our arrival in the internet world of Puerto Escondido, I am finally able to load up some pictures. Here is a sampling of shots taken since our departure from LaPaz. Yup, a lot of water, sand, rocks, and plants. That is the view from our patio these days. Enjoy!
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| Dolphins on the Bow -- showing us the way out of La Paz |
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| Sandpiper at Bonanza Beach |
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| Magic anchored at Bonanza Beach |
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| Oystercatcher ashore |
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| Getting around on the islands: The Princesses Leia and Catherine |
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| Under way |
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| Rocky Beach near San Evaristo |
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| Roadside Shrine |
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| Cactus |
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| Alan helping some cruisers to recover their outboard engine that jumped the transom of their dinghy. (It is our Brownie's Third Lung the diver is using) |
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| Drying the laundry |
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| Roadside Shrine |
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| Anchorage at San Evaristo -- can you find Magic? |
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| The road from the village to the highway... |
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| Isla San Jose -- view to salt flats from abandoned building |
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| Salt harvesting! |
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| A Sunrise |
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| Arroyo hike on Isla San Jose |
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| Lovely touch of color |
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| View towards La Paz |
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| That be a whale! |
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