A Little Magic Every Day: We Go On Vacation!

Yup, I know. We are on vacation every day -- nothing but fun in the sun in Mexico. NOT!

We left Magic at anchor in Puerto Escondido under the watchful eye of SeaDream during a spell of calm weather; rented a car; and headed out for a vacation day. Our goal was Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos, one of several gray whale breeding lagoons on the Pacific side. We had no plans other than see the whales!!

Gray whales are well known for the 12,000 mile round trip between their southern breeding grounds in Baja and their northern feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. This is one of the longest migrations of any known mammal. Females calve in the shallow Pacific Baja Lagoons in January/February/March and by early April begin the northward migration. Adults are gray and mottled; often covered in barnacles and showing scars from the teeth of killer whales. Adults may weigh from 15-35 tons and are 40-46 feet in length. Calves are typically 15 feet long and only a half ton. They spend several months growing and preparing for the migration north.

It was only about 90 minutes from P. Escsondido to Cuidad Constitution (up and over the Gigantes Mountains) where we ran a few errands--diesel engine oil & a grocery store run. Then over to the Pacific side and the small, sleepy town of Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos.

Arriving about 6pm we went out to the piers to inquire about tours for early the next morning. It was pretty shut down; I wondered how we would find at least 4 others to share the panga with in this sleepy town. We were walking back to the car and a young man approached us and asked if we were hungry. Yes, dinner was definitely part of our plan but the places were all closed. No, I will call the cook and she will come make what ever you want. A few minutes later the table was set; chairs appeared; the cook walked in and we gave our order. The sun was setting -- so off someone went to find a generator to give us a light. The food was delicious and when the generator ran dry -- well, they found a candle and told us it was "very romantic."

Eventually we left and headed into the town to the only hotel--The Happy Shrimp Hotel. The sign said ABIERTO -- and indeed they were open. We got a room and asked for hot water. Sure -- wait 30 minutes and you will have hot water. We drove the town to find some milk for breakfast (we had brought our cereal) and while we were in the tienda the whole town lost power. Out come the flashlights -- but soon there was power again.

We took HOT SHOWERS. Oh my, was that a treat.

Early in the morning we could hear a few other guests in the front lobby area. Alan investigated a bit and found a delightful group who had arrived during the night to -- you guessed it -- see the whales. One of their group has lived part time in the Baja for 30 years so had made some prior arrangements for a 3 hour tour -- and invited us to join. WOW. (I would say that when we returned to the docks this morning-- the place was hopping with buses, tourists, and all sorts of services.)

I can not tell you how it felt to be on this tour. We left the dock and sped out through the lagoon. Within a few minutes we saw our first whale. And soon our second whale; soon a baby. Spouts abounding.

The whales here are known as The Friendly Ones. Many mother whales approach the pangas and let their babies be petted. They are so aware of the surroundings. At times they knock the panga (we did not have any that lifted or scratched on our hull.) The pangeros were always attentive to the mother and baby -- where was the HUGE body and POWERFUL tail.

I'm known as a squealler and I squealled. A couple of times. I petted a whale, I got a whale spouting on me, I watched the moms lift the babies on their backs, I watched the tails sway under water, I watched whales just roll and swim. Over and over and over. I am still amazed at the memories. I was almost in tears it felt so incredibly powerful to connect to these whales in such a personal and intimate manner. I gave thanks that these whales would share so much with us and seek us out to make connection.

3 hours later -- we were back at the dock and then driving to our boat. WOW. What a vacation.
So, I over did the photos. Try and realize that these photos are taken with a point and shoot camera -- not over a great distance -- these whales were right there.